Wine tasting: Casillero del Diablo from Concha y Toro in Chile
Sarah Wong
The range of wines in local supermarkets has expanded dramatically in recent years. Large brands, such as Penfolds, Yellow Tail, Mouton Cadet and Gallo, now dominate. Consumers looking for good value and reliability should try Casillero del Diablo from Concha y Toro in Chile.
Vina Concha y Toro was established in 1883 by Don Melchor Concha y Toro. The winery is still family-owned and is listed on the New York Stock Exchange. Casillero del Diablo means the devil's cellar. It is said that Don Melchor spread the myth that the devil lived in the cellar to prevent theft. The wine is nicknamed "the red devil" and has become the official wine of Manchester United.
Marcelo Papa is the head winemaker at Casillero del Diablo. When he started out in 1998, production stood at 350,000 cases with three grape varieties. Fifteen years later, this has grown to an astounding four million cases with more than 12 grape varieties. Papa may have a relaxed demeanour, but he is determined to make the best wine that he can. "A merlot must be typical of merlot," he says. More importantly, he makes wines that consumers will want to buy again.
Casillero Del Diablo is now sold in more than 120 countries, and a bottle purchased in Paris or Shanghai should taste the same. Papa says consistency is key. In the past, the winery's chardonnays were too sweet and full of tropical fruit. He has single-handedly changed that by increasing vine plantings in the Limari Valley in the northern part of the country. The difference in soil adds a more mineral, steely component to the wine.
Casillero del Diablo Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Approximately 1.3 million cases of cabernet sauvignon are made, making it one of the brand's best sellers.
Blackcurrant with a touch of green pepper, slightly restrained nose. Medium body with well-balanced acid and finishing with some firm tannins. A versatile everyday drinking wine which will go well with barbecued meats. HK$129
Fresh citrus, peach and honeydew melon, with hints of pineapple. Medium body, packed with fruit, refreshing acidity and a touch of spicy oak tannins on the finish. Very enjoyable, fresh and vibrant. Perfect as an aperitif or with seafood.
Papa says the merlot is the most difficult wine to make. Many of the Casillero del Diablo vines thought to be merlot were identified as carménère, which led to them being replanted. The young merlot vines are now five years old, and, like young children, are fickle, which may affect the wine's quality.
Upfront black fruit, black plums. Medium body, with good fruit core, soft tannins. Approachable and friendly in style.
