Sauvignon blanc is loved for its vibrant, fresh fruit character complemented by herbal grassy notes. The classic home of the grape is in the Loire Valley. The most famous areas are Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé (not to be confused with Pouilly-Fuissé in Burgundy). Marlborough, located on New Zealand's South Island, may be a newcomer, but it has now set a new stylistic benchmark for its sauvignon blanc. Henri Bourgeois has the reputation of producing some of the best sauvignon blanc in the Loire Valley. The family has been making wines for 10 generations. Vineyards are equated with tradition, but the current generation says that wines have "no borders". They wanted to repeat the success of the Loire and have looked towards New Zealand to do so. Jean-Marie Bourgeois says New Zealand "was love at first sight. The climate for wine and [the] terroir was perfect," and his goal was to make "a pure expression of sauvignon blanc." Bourgeois was a patient man, and it took him 13 years to find the perfect site in the Wairau Valley in Marlborough. Critics complain that producers of sauvignon blanc in New Zealand are taking success for granted. The crops are becoming too large, and the harvest is taking place too early, leading to under-ripe fruit with little concentration and searing acidity. Bourgeois says that this may be true for some of the wines coming from large corporations. To ensure quality, he controls yields in the vineyard, and does not irrigate the vines. When comparing New Zealand to France, Bourgeois believes that the king of sauvignon blanc is Sancerre, while New Zealand is the queen. Sauvignon blanc from Sancerre tends to be more subtle on the nose, while it possesses more upfront primary fruit in New Zealand. Another big difference is the ageing ability. Bourgeois says that New Zealand does not age its sauvignons, and they are often released soon after fermentation. He says that Sancerre can still be fresh at 10 years old, and some have the potential to age for 30 years. Try the Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Jadis 2002 which is just beginning to show mature complex character. 48hours@scmp.com Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Blanc "Les Baronnes" 2012 This wine is about its origin. Winemaking techniques are minimal to bring out the "gout de terroir", or the "taste of the place". Oak plays a minimal role as its dominant flavours tend to obscure the purity of the fruit. This Sancerre is made from 20- to 40-year-old vines grown on chalky soils which contribute to the mineral notes. A restrained nose of citrus, grassy, mineral notes. Medium body with crisp acidity, taut in structure with a clean finish. Shows great purity in fruit. HK$206 Henri Bourgeois Pouilly-Fumé "La Demoiselle de Bourgeois" 2011 Subtle citrus and stony hints on the nose. Medium body with a steely core, a slightly creamy mid-palate, finishing long. It shows more multidimensional flavours. Still young and can improve over the next 10 years. A good food wine for seafood and white meat. HK$339 Clos Henri Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough Upfront grassy, citrus, asparagus and gooseberry notes. Good fruit intensity on the palate with refreshing acidity and finishing fairly long. A powerful wine that epitomises sauvignon blanc. HK$265 Wines are available from winegallery@asc-wines.com
