I know a place: TV host and writer Kei Sugiuchi knows what he likes

Hokkaido native Kei Sugiuchi, better known as Kei San, has lived in Hong Kong for 30 years. A self-taught cook, Kei is the host of a TV food show and a newspaper columnist.

I started cooking when I moved to California with my family when I was younger. There wasn't much Japanese food available, so I started cooking with any Asian ingredients I could get from grocery stores to fix my Japanese food cravings.

When I moved to Hong Kong, there weren't many Japanese restaurants and they were so expensive I couldn't afford them. I only went when my bosses paid.

I continued cooking my own meals using ingredients from department stores, such as Sogo and the now-closed Mitsukoshi, although they were quite expensive, too.

Nowadays, there are a lot more affordable and good Japanese restaurants - not to be confused with Japanese-style restaurants - to choose from in Hong Kong now.

I think (Ashley Building, 14 Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: 2376 3323) is the oldest Japanese restaurant in Hong Kong. It has been operating at the same address for 40 years and, until recently, under the same chef. They serve traditional fare from Osaka, which is in the Kansai region where the dishes are lighter than in the Kanto region, for example.