Wine tasting: Quinta de Foz de Arouce from Portugal

Portugal has a reputation for being a treasure trove of cheap and cheerful wines. In the days of high wine duties in Hong Kong, wine lovers often took a trip to Macau to seek out wines from Douro Valley, Dão, Bairrada and Porto. Quality was variable, from easy drinking wines to rustic reds which were often oxidised, with mouth-drying tannins. Portugal has quietly undergone a transformation and now produces high quality wines at relatively good value.

One prime example is Quinta de Foz de Arouce. Wine writer Jamie Goode describes it as "a bit of an oddity, in that it makes one of Portugal's best wines, but it's not in a well-known wine region".

Quinta de Foz de Arouce is located in Lousã, in the northern region of Beiras. The region includes Dão Bairrada, Lafões and Tàvora-Varosa. It is a mountainous terrain with a continental climate. Summers are hot and dry while winters are long and cold. The current custodian of the estate is the fourth Count of Arouce, João Filipe Osório de Meneses Pitta. Viticulture has long been practiced in the region and dates back to Roman times. In recent times, Quinta de Foz de Arouce has regained a position of prominence with renowned winemaker João Portugal Ramos at its helm.

Ramos married Teresa, the daughter of the Count of Arouce. The wines are a marriage of tradition and modernity. The combination of indigenous varieties and modern winemaking has led to the wines receiving high accolades from many wine critics.

Quinta de Foz de Arouce, Vinhas Velhas de Santa Maria 2007
The baga grapes are sourced from the estate's oldest vineyard which dates back to 1940. Only made in great years. A restrained nose of black fruit, black cherries, dried herbs, thyme and licorice. Full bodied, high intensity of fruit, velvety tannins balanced with crisp acidity. Finishing very long. Still young, and will need to be decanted a few hours before drinking to open up. HK$540

Quinta de Foz de Arouce Tinto 2009
Made from the indigenous grape varieties baga and touriga nacional. Baga is a small, thick-skinned variety producing deep coloured wines which are high in tannin. Touriga nacional is best known as one of the components of port. Full bodied, with a core of ripe fruit. Firm underlying tannins. A fruit-forward style that will benefit with more ageing to soften the tannins. HK$230