IN RECENT YEARS all eyes have been on China, as the country's citizens have evolved from mere consumers to creators of luxury fashion. While the first generation of designers such as Qiu Hao captivated the West with their luxe looks, the next wave of talent is focusing on the contemporary market with wearable designs that cater to the needs of modern Chinese women. Leading the charge is Ms Min founder Liu Min, who launched her label in 2010, and is already being stocked by Lane Crawford. "There is a great deal of strength and femininity with Ms Min," says Sarah Rutson, fashion director of Lane Crawford and one of Liu's mentors. "I would say her brand and design style is so much about who the Chinese woman is - full of strength but with an outward show of femininity. "There is also a sense of nostalgic mid-century modern combined with intelligent clean lines that are very today." Liu grew up in the coastal city of Xiamen, and learned about fashion from foreign fashion magazines. By the age of 14, she knew she wanted to be a fashion designer. "I used to shop with my mum and we would go to these Shanghai clothing trade fairs. I'd go from booth to booth with her, looking at the details and feeling different moods from different assortments," Liu says. "Back then I was just looking at clothes, later I fell in love with clothing and arts." She later chose to study in London after reading about Vivienne Westwood and the city's flea markets, graduating with a BA in women's wear from London College of Fashion in 2007. This was followed by a stint working with design duo Viktor & Rolf in their atelier in Amsterdam, where she learned about the importance of details and fabrics. In 2009 she was lured home and decided to launch her own label from her hometown after having witnessed a resurgence in creativity in the local fashion and design fields. Rather than model her brand on Western luxury labels, she took a more personal approach by designing clothes that appealed to her own aesthetic. "I just felt I had a feeling and a voice I really wanted to express. After returning to China, I realised the climate for new fashion was right," says Liu. "I design for a woman who connect to my clothes. In my mind she does not have a specific face, race or age." The result is a brand that seeks modernity in the classics, with a style that Liu describes as a "yin-yang balance of masculine and feminine". It's where soft meets hard, and romance is paired with a tough exterior. At the same time, precise yet simple silhouettes are contrasted with intricate details and luxe fabrics to create a look that is desirable and wearable. This style is best exemplified in her current spring-summer collection. "It's inspired by the nature of textiles and the natural beauty of a woman," she says. Highlights include an abstract floral print which appears on cotton silk shirts and pleated skirts that are either long and loose - the "Boho" feel - or short and full. The double layer black organza top is contemporary and feminine thanks to its boxy shape and tonal floral embroidery. Other must-haves include a kimono sleeve top that's cropped in the front but long in the back, layered halter tops and the form fitting jumpsuit decorated with a couture bow in the front. While many of her designs wouldn't look out of place on women in Shanghai or New York, Liu says her Chinese background does influence her style. As such she often includes details inspired by her heritage which are reworked into clothing that is relatable to today's audience. The current collection for example includes a fantastical storybook print featuring a kaleidoscope of creatures, bright flowers, lush weeping willows, porcelain pagoda towers and delicate jade pavilions which decorates retro inspired pleated skirts and rounded shoulder tops. "In general, however, I don't think my work has to be defined by my culture. I design for the woman of today," says Liu. Looking ahead, she plans to grow her brand organically, despite the huge interest in China and Chinese designers that is coming from the West. "The fashion scene, like China itself, is growing quickly. I think the growth and growing interest in Chinese design mostly means a growing audience for what I do, and that's exciting," she says. "But the biggest challenge for Chinese designers is the fact that China as a market for fashion design is relatively new, so it will take a while to be internationally known. Right now I'm just grateful for what I have accomplished. I'm taking things one season at a time." divia.harilela@scmp.com
