Ambience: the four of us were seated in a smaller room that was open to the main dining room. Except for the table nearest ours, most of the diners were quiet. Recommended dishes: the drunken prawns (HK$88 for three) were brought to the table alive and kicking (so to speak) before the alcoholic effects kicked in. After being poached, the prawns were sweet and delicate, even though we couldn't taste much of the wine. The double-boiled soup of the day (sugar cane, carrot and pork, HK$58 per person) showed off the glory of everyday Cantonese soups, which are delicious and intense, yet simple. The stewed ribs with dried tangerine peel and clam sauce in a stone pot (HK$118) could have used more tangerine peel, but the meat was tender and the sauce cried out for rice. The dish of the night was the fried noodles with soy sauce and bean sprouts (HK$98), which had plenty of flavour from the wok hei (breath of the wok). Pros: service was good and they didn't try to push expensive dishes. Cons: Cantonese food is known for subtlety, but some of this food was a little too mild. The chicken with black bean sauce (HK$98) needed more black bean flavour, the pan-fried diced steak with sliced garlic (HK$58) tasted as if it had been tenderised with baking soda and the steamed grouper fillet with Chinese wine and egg white (HK$268) was marred because the egg white was lumpy, rather than smooth.
What else? Unicorn used to be in the Lee Theatre Plaza, before it moved to its present location.
