Classic Hong Kong restaurants: Ngau Kee Food Cafe, Chai Wan
Ngau Kee Food Cafe has moved many times, but its reputation for Cantonese cuisine has remained intact
Opened in 1951 on Staunton Street, Ngau Kee Food Cafe was named after its first owner, Leung Ngau. "He was just selling simple drinks, like milk tea, but soon bing sutts with bakeries started opening and the business went downhill," says Mak Ping-kuen, Ngau Kee's owner.
The next owners ran the restaurant completely differently, Mak says. "After Leung, there was a family by the name of Lui. They made Ngau Kee a Cantonese teahouse — the kind where people spat on the floor — it wasn't very nice." In 1996, Mak bought the business.
"I used to be an electrician. Ngau Kee was a neighbouring shop, and when I heard that they wanted to sell, I decided to take over, serving home-style dishes," says Mak.
An increase in rent forced Mak to move Ngau Kee from Staunton Street to a less central location on Gough Street in 2005. Another rent hike last year caused the restaurant to close for a year. This April, it reopened in Chai Wan.
There is a large elderly clientele in the area, and Mak has introduced discounts for them. "We open at 6am now, and close at 11pm, and serve breakfast dim sum, which the elderly here enjoy. We used to stay open later in Central," says Mak.