The dishes at Japanese restaurant Uehara change to reflect the best fish available

At about HK$1,700 per person, Uehara isn't cheap, although it's not the most expensive omakase meal (the only option offered at dinner) we've had.

Hearing about the chefs' experience — the one who served us worked previously at Sushi Sase, while Takahiro Uehara himself is from Sushi Hiro — made us suspect even before we took a single bite that we were in for a good meal. Our dinner consisted of 13 cooked and raw dishes, eight pieces of sushi, miso soup and dessert — too many dishes to write about in great detail.

Although the Japanese tend to pay great attention to texture, we noticed it here more than at other restaurants. Geoduck came in two courses. One was the raw neck — so fresh that when the chef sliced it and smacked it with his hand, the muscle contracted. It had a nice, bouncy texture. Later in the meal came the softer, mildly crunchy grilled body served with myoga (ginger flower) and soy sauce.

After slicing a raw scallop in half, the chef trimmed off the adductor muscle, and added it to the dish; it had a chewier texture than the body meat. Served with clam sauce and smoked soy, the scallop was soft and sweet.

We liked almost all the dishes we tried (apart from the katsuo sashimi, which was too cold and large), but other highlights included the fatty aburi fish sashimi seasoned with yuzu zest and soy; and shima-ebi (prawn) with seaweed salt and kani miso.

We also liked almost all the sushi, although we've tasted better Hokkaido uni. Sushi courses included ika with wasabi and sudachi; aji (horse mackerel) with ginger and spring onion; and lightly seared rose sea bass with yuzukosho.