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Wine Tasting: Tasmania

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From left: Tamar Ridge Chardonnay 2011, Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir 2011 and Devil's Corner Pinot Grigio 2013.
Sarah Wong

According to Wine Australia, wine exports were valued at A$1.82 billion (HK$13.25 billion) in 2013. However, droughts, heatwaves and risk of bush fires are buffeting the industry. Producers are looking for new, cooler wine regions to mitigate the impact of climate change and Tasmania is high on their lists.

Tasmania has a growing reputation as a gourmet's paradise for its seafood, agricultural produce and even the black Perigord winter truffle. It is a latecomer compared with the Barossa Valley, Margaret River or the Yarra Valley. Its 1,549 hectares of vineyards account for less than 1 per cent of Australia's total wine production. This has not hindered its success. In international wine competitions, Tasmanian wines are racking up the gold medals. In 2011, the state won the prestigious Jimmy Watson Prize for the best young Australian red wine. Winning winemaker Nick Glaetzer says, "We are at the front of the wave. I don't know any other regions in Australia or the world that have the same conditions as Tasmania."

Tasmania has a cool growing climate. Grapes retain higher levels of acidity and the wines show great purity of varietal expression. According to Tom Wallace, winemaker at Tamar Ridge, the region's "chardonnay and pinot noir for sparkling and still wines are stand-outs. Riesling has always been successful."

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In 2010, wine giant Brown Brothers acquired Tasmanian wine producer Tamar Ridge and the Hazards Vineyard to produce the label Devil's Corner. Wallace says the change has brought, "a lot of winemaking and viticultural experience, but the style has remained the same, as has the desire to make the highest quality wine possible".

Only about 8 per cent of production is exported. In Hong Kong, a few labels are starting to trickle in.

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Tamar Ridge Chardonnay 2011
Citrus, melon, peach notes on the nose. Medium body, elegant with crisp acidity and showing purity of fruit. HK$193

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