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Food Review: Naked Gurume Gyarari

Naked Gurume Gyarari offers contrasting flavours, a great pasta and a thoroughly missable dessert

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Toro with Iberico ham. Photos: Paul Yeung
Susan Jung

It's due to my total lack of a sense of direction that if there are two ways to go, I'm sure to pick the wrong one. So it was inevitable that when I walked up the stairs to Naked Gurume Gyarari and turned left, I went into the private dining room. A friendly face looked out of the door on the other side of the stairs and beckoned me in. The friendliness continued throughout the night; everyone seemed eager to help.

We started with fried oysters, well priced at four for HK$88. Small and moist, they came with a yuzu kosho cream that was more like a mayonnaise. Something lighter and more acidic would have been better.

Naked Gurume Gyarari
Naked Gurume Gyarari
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A similar mayonnaise-like sauce came with the crunchy, addictive black truffle lotus root chips (HK$78), but rather than being too heavy, it was a nice contrast with the delicacy of the chips.

The toro with 48-month aged Iberico ham was a rich mouthful of sea and land enhanced with negi (Japanese spring onions) and briny sea grapes. It was expensive at HK$198 for three pieces.

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Uni and quinoa pasta
Uni and quinoa pasta
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