Even with the large range of wines in Hong Kong, it is still difficult to find a decent selection of Portuguese wine. Portugal, however, has quietly undergone a revolution in the quality of wines. For the consumer it means a little more work in delving into unknown producers, grape varieties and regions. However, the patient and adventurous will be richly rewarded as some of the top wines are still offering value for money. Here are a few worth exploring.
Luis Pato has been called the Angelo Gaja [Piedmonte's superstar wine producer] of Bairrada by Jancis Robinson. He is an innovator and experimenter and has helped bring Bairrada's wines to the attention of an international audience. The Duet is a sparkling rosé made from a blend of baga and bical. Bical, a white grape variety, is characterised by peach and apricot aromas. Its high acidity makes it an ideal blending variety for sparkling wine. Baga, a red variety, is known for its dark, tannic wines that have long ageing potential. An attractive pale bronze, it is quite restrained on the nose with notes of red fruit and biscuit. On the palate it's quite steely with crisp acidity, and is very dry with a touch of bitterness at the finish. This is a good food wine, and has the structure to complement rich dishes. Try with barbecued or braised pork. HK$200
The Bussaco Palace Hotel was built by King Charles 1 of Portugal as a royal retreat. The current owner, Alexandre d'Almeida, conceived the idea of the hotel being "a cathedral of wine". The wines were originally made from the palace's own vineyards and from growers in the Dão and Bairrada wine regions. Vintages stretch back to the 1940s. Golden coloured. On the nose it displays some development with hazelnuts, butterscotch and buttery notes. Full bodied, balanced acidity, with good fruit intensity and finishing quite long. An intriguing wine that has elements of an aged white Burgundy. A wine that will pair with white meats and fatty fish such as cod and salmon. HK$600
Niepoort is the modern face of Douro Valley and has proved that the region is capable of producing top quality wines with cellaring potential. The Vertente is a blend of grapes that are traditionally used to make port. They include tinta roriz, touriga franca, tinta amarela and touriga nacional. This wine is fermented in stainless steel and aged for about 18 months in French barriques. Ripe black fruit, some floral notes, with a touch of leather and dried herbs. Full bodied, ripe fruit and well integrated tannins. Approachable and showing developed and mature notes. Ready to drink now. HK$350
Wines are available from Adega Royale, [email protected] and Sip n Savour, 409 Yip Fung Building, 2-18 D'Aguilar Street, Central, tel: 2530 9906; sipnsavour.com