Advertisement
Advertisement
Japanese pork belly at Bibo. Photos: Nora Tam

Food review: Bibo has good artwork, but doesn't live up to expectations

The food at Sheung Wan restaurant cum art space is no match for the surroundings

Bibo exudes cool, or at least it tries to. It starts with the entrance — we looked for, but didn't see a sign outside the restaurant. The only reason we knew we were in the right place was the doorman. The music plays just a little too loudly, and the odd acoustics meant that I had an easier time hearing the stranger sitting at the next table than my guest across from me.

Although there were some beautiful people dining there, it seems most of them have moved onto a newer hotspot. Other diners included a dating couple who looked too young to drink, and the couple at the next table who we thought were an older father and his daughter, but upon overhearing their conversation, we realised they were not.

Bibo generated a lot of buzz because it's as much an art space as a restaurant. The art, which covered the walls and part of the floor space, is an excellent focal point.

But the food didn't live up to the stylish surroundings, or the price tag.

We liked the bread with Bordier butter, and one of the desserts, but the rest was hit and miss.

Les gougonettes — deep-fried French lemon sole (HK$170) — was like a dish you'd get in a bar. Australian lamb with pan-fried polenta and spring vegetables (HK$290 for small) was average.

Our main course of Japanese Sagabuta pork belly with orange marmalade (HK$420) was tender, but the best part of the dish was the black pudding croquettes.

We liked the homiest dishes better. Australian wagyu beef with French mashed potatoes and black winter truffle sauce (HK$320), was spoon-tender and comforting.

A crumbly cinnamon butter cookie with strawberries, lemon verbena and cheesecake sorbet (HK$180) was simple but well done.

Australian wagyu

 

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Feast your eyes
Post