Wine Tasting: Champagne industry benefits from a woman's touch

played influential roles in the champagne industry. One of the most prominent figures was Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin, better known as Veuve Clicquot (widow Clicquot). After the untimely death of her husband in 1805, the young widow took over the family business at the age of 27. By her death she had transformed Clicquot into one of the most sought-after brands in Europe. She modernised winemaking techniques and is credited with inventing the riddling rack, which removes yeast sediment from the bottle.

Increasing champagne exports made Veuve Clicquot the favourite wine among the Russian aristocracy. Today, following in the footsteps of Madame Clicquot, women continue to lead major champagne houses such as Heidsieck, Boizel and Laurent-Perrier.

Within the number of small grower champagnes, it is also possible to find women running the family business. A notable example is Guy de Chassey, a fifth-generation family business. The champagne house is located in the village of Louvois, with 9.5 hectares of vineyards in Bouzy and Louvois. Its current steward is Marie Odile. Volume is small and production is about 50,000 bottles. Moet and Chandon produces about 26 million bottles, and Veuve Clicquot about 10 million bottles. Production methods are still traditional at Guy de Chassey. The basket press is used to press the grapes; riddling, which facilitates the removal of yeast sediment, is still done manually.

A blend of 70 per cent pinot noir and 30 per cent chardonnay. It has spent 20 months on the lees, adding to its complexity and depth of character. Citrus, toasty nose. Quite full bodied, with notes of strawberry and red fruits. Well balanced acidity and finishing fairly long. Pairs well with oysters, sashimi and seafood. HK$330