In June, 70 years after opening in Singapore, Ya Kun Coffee & Toast opened its first Hong Kong branch. Named after its founder, who emigrated from Hainan Island, the chain serves all the usual kopitiam and hawker-stall favourites as well as crushed iced drinks. The restaurant has been busy since it opened, but the queue moved quickly and we reached the counter in a few minutes. The first disappointment came when we were told that all the salads on the menu had been discontinued and the espresso machine was broken. The second disappointment was my nasi lemak istimewa (HK$48), coconut rice served with a fried chicken wing and pickled vegetables and topped with a fried egg. The chicken was lightly fried, so it was not at all greasy, but there weren't any fried anchovies or roasted peanuts, essential ingredients of this traditional dish. The kaya butter toast set (HK$45) was a good breakfast choice. The brown bread was thin enough to really taste the kaya — a jam made from egg and coconut — and it is served with two soft-boiled eggs and thick tea or coffee. My friend's curry laksa (HK$42) tasted too fishy and needed more coconut, and the two small prawns did little to compensate. She also ordered the steamed bread with kaya peanut butter (HK$18), which came in dim sum baskets to keep the fluffy white bread soft and moist. Ya Kun also has a range of ice-blended drinks, including a chendol version (small HK$30, large HK$36), an adaptation of a Southeast Asian dessert. Made of coconut and palm sugar blended with ice and vanilla powder and topped with bits of green and black jelly, corn and red bean, it is pretty good if you ignore all the calories and chemicals. Also on the menu is Singapore chicken rice (HK$48), Singapore curry chicken (HK$48) and mee siam (HK$42). Ya Kun will inevitably invite comparisons with the Toast Box chain, but the latter is superior in every way. The taste is more authentic and prices are lower. Ya Kun Coffee & Toast, 45-51 Chatham Road South, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: 3971 0884. Open: 7.30am-11pm
