Town is the latest venture from Bryan Nagao, who first came to notice in Hong Kong when he was chef of Felix at The Peninsula.
(tel: 2568 8708) is the latest venture from Bryan Nagao, who first came to notice in Hong Kong when he was chef of Felix at The Peninsula. The new restaurant replaces Alba, in Causeway Bay, where Nagao was most recently chef. The menu offers seemingly simple but well-thought-out dishes with modern Japanese flair. The Sicilian red prawn carpaccio with black truffle caviar, yuzu and croutons (below, HK$198) is a light and refreshing starter, showcasing the purity of the prawns. Tempura shrimps with candied walnuts and spicy aioli (HK$148) would look right at home on the menu at Nobu across the harbour.
Suckling pig with clams, pancetta, baby spinach and miso broth (HK$258) was tender, moist and smoky. The pancetta and clam combination was interesting, although the miso broth could make things a little salty. Herb black cod with wasabi gnocchi, Sicilian red prawns, celery root and mushrooms (HK$268) came without the expected herb crust, but the cod was succulent and yielded easily to the knife. The wasabi gnocchi provided the fusion element, but I would have traded it for more of that beautiful Sicilian red prawn. The texture of the yuzu soufflé with vanilla ice cream (HK$98) was uneven, but the flavour was refreshing.