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Susan Jung

Mano
The L Place, 139 Queen's Road Central
Tel: 2399 0737
Open: Monday to Friday 8.30am-11pm, Saturday 9.30am-11pm
 
Cuisine: modern European
Price: about HK$540 without drinks or the service charge.
Ambience: very quiet — there were only about four other sets of diners on the night of our visit.

Recommended dishes: the small pulled pork burger (HK$80 each) was fantastic, with meat that was tender and juicy. Beetroot tartare (HK$95) was a nice, light version of the traditional beef tartare, with many of the familiar elements such as egg and mustard. The main course of mackerel with fresh porcini, red quinoa and chicken jus (HK$320) was an excellent piece of moist fish with delicately crisp skin.
Pros: the menu is quite brief, and composed primarily of hot and cold appetisers, with just eight mains, which means you can try a good variety of smaller dishes.
Cons: I liked Frederic Chabbert's food when he was chef of Petrus at the Island Shangri-La. He wasn't there on the night of our review, and perhaps that's why the execution of some of the dishes was off. While the kitchen accommodated our request for two-thirds of the wagyu grilled striploin (HK$580) to be medium-rare, while the final part was cooked to medium, they left a very thick layer of exterior fat on the meat. We liked the flavours of the strawberry dessert (HK$110), but with each strawberry, the leaves had been removed, but not the tough core.
What else? The restaurant was reportedly renovated when Chabbert came on board as chef, but not much has changed since my previous visit. 

 


Food review: Mano, Central - modern European by ex-Petrus chef

Photos: Dickson Lee

Beetroot tartare with quail egg

Pulled pork burger

Magazines

48 Hours

The menu is quite brief, and composed primarily of hot and cold appetisers, with just eight mains, which means you can try a good variety of smaller dishes.


Expresses the views, ideas and conclusions of the author. (Eg. Enough of Crazy Rich Asians, think of crazy poor Hongkongers.)


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Plate to Palate

Food review: Mano, Central - modern European by ex-Petrus chef

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}The menu is quite brief, and composed primarily of hot and cold appetisers, with just eight mains, which means you can try a good variety of smaller dishes.

The menu is quite brief, and composed primarily of hot and cold appetisers, with just eight mains, which means you can try a good variety of smaller dishes.