Classic Hong Kong restaurants: Yan Toh Heen, Tsim Sha Tsui

Yan Toh Heen, the InterContinental Hong Kong's Chinese fine dining restaurant, was known as Lai Ching Heen when the hotel was named The Regent Hong Kong; Lai Ching being the hotel's name in Chinese.

In 2001, when the hotel was sold, the Chinese restaurant was renamed, "yan toh" meaning to appreciate the picture, or the panorama.

Lau Yiu-fai, now executive chef, was part of the opening team of Lai Ching Heen. "I began working at the hotel in 1980 in the banqueting section. The restaurant didn't open until 1984," he says.

"Back then, using local ingredients was the norm. The beef would still be warm when it arrived, as they'd only have slaughtered it that morning. But hygiene laws have changed, so that's not possible anymore," he says. However, Lau says that he now has more choice. "We can get good quality produce from around the world.

"We have regular guests from all over the world. Some visit every time they come to Hong Kong. Local guests are more well-travelled these days and have higher expectations." he says.