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Veal cheek ravioli. Photos: Paul Yeung
Opinion
Plate to Palate
by Susan Jung
Plate to Palate
by Susan Jung

Glittering Mid-Levels bar serves up friendly, happy vibe of Venice

In Venice, a bacaro is a convivial neighbourhood bar where people gather to gossip, drink and eat small bites of food.

Sepa Bacaro Veneziano, on Caine Road, is a little more posh (and the seats are a lot more comfortable) than the ones we visited in Venice, but its friendly, happy vibe is just right.

And the food is good.

Tagliatelle with duck ragu

The main dining area is dominated by a spacious, glittering bar that has large carnival mask chandeliers. The menu — which doubles as a placemat — lists about 20 savoury dishes and a few desserts.

Basotto egg with bagna cauda sauce, tiny zucchini cubes and potato foam (HK$88) was a delicious starter: rich (but not too rich), pungent (but not too pungent), warm and comforting. More substantial was the mortadella, ricotta cheese and black truffle bomba (HK$138) — a sandwich stuffed with top-quality meat and cheese.

We also liked our two pasta dishes. Ravioli were plump dumplings with a hearty stuffing of braised veal cheek (HK$158) with a rich, sticky glaze and the unexpected taste of shiso leaf.

Sweet and sour sardines

Shiso leaf also perked up the deep, intense duck ragu coating al dente strands of tagliatelle (HK$148) — a dish that was listed on the specials' board.

I liked the sweet and sour sardines (HK$128) more than my guest did. The sardines had been deboned and the cavity filled with slow-cooked onions that were soft and sweet, then the fish was lightly breaded and fried. An acidic element was provided by a vinegar jelly, while red pepper purée provided a bit of a kick. Sadly, we were too full for dessert.

The service was very good: they changed our plates often and, when the waitress realised that my guest disliked the cucumber-flavoured water being served, she refilled his glass with plain water.

The interior

 

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: A little bite of Venice
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