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Marissa Carruthers

Boasting a captivating charm, it's not difficult to see why Battambang is gaining traction with visitors. Home to some of Cambodia's best-preserved colonial architecture, hilltop temples, and sprawling, untouched countryside, Battambang blends small city living with the characteristic Cambodian laid-back way of life.
Battambang borders Thailand and is known as the rice bowl of Cambodia. It is also the country's artistic hub, with an abundance of artists setting up base around the city.


ARTISTIC TENDENCIES
Battambang has been the birthplace of many of Cambodia's most famous artists, musicians and intellectuals, and they have spawned a generation of fresh, young talent to follow in their footsteps. The majority of the country's artists were killed during the Khmer Rouge years, but 30 years on, the art scene is once again thriving. Battambang is home to more artists per capita than anywhere else in the country.
The best of the arts scene can be found in small galleries nestled on quaint Street 2.5, with Lotus, Sammaki and Make Maek the main attractions. Studio Art Battambang is worth checking out, as is Phare Ponleu Selpak — home of the Battambang circus and the art school where many of the city's artists received their training. The town is filled with a blend of modern and traditional murals and paintings.


EYE-CATCHING ARCHITECTURE
Part of Battambang's beauty lies in its stunning colonial architecture. It's home to some of Cambodia's best-preserved buildings from the era, and heritage walking tours take in the city's finest.
The walks usually take a couple of hours, but those with less time can jump on a bike, thanks to the flat terrain, and cycle round instead.
There are several interesting buildings on the eastern bank of the Sangkar River, which slices through the town, and an ensemble of more than 800 heritage buildings from the French protectorate between Streets 1 and 3. Highlights include the vice-governor's house, a pristine building that merges French-colonial style with traditional Khmer elements. The post office, which was built by the French administration between 1907 and 1926, is worth a look. Walking maps can be downloaded at ka-tours.org

GET OUT THERE
The beauty of Battambang is the fact that you can escape the hustle and bustle by heading just five minutes out of town. Hiring a motorbike or bicycle is probably the best way to explore the untouched countryside and get a glimpse into rural living and the real Cambodia. Bike tour companies, such as Soksabike, offer half- and full-day tours. Alternatively, you can take in the sights from the water by hiring a kayak from Green Orange Kayak.
A few kilometres outside the city lies the cultural village of Watkor Sangkat, where you'll find a number of charming traditional Khmer wooden houses. Here you can meet villagers who are more than happy to take guests on a tour and talk about their way of life. A great way to explore the surrounding area is by ox cart — a popular form of transport in rural Cambodia.

A SENSE OF HISTORY
Battambang is full of history, and a short tuk tuk or motorbike ride out of town brings heaps of rewards. The Bamboo Train is a must, although it's definitely not for the faint-hearted, as the rickety ride hits speeds of up to 40km/h. Starting from O Dambong village, the 12-km round trip is taken on a flatbed bamboo train, also known as a "norry". It dates back to the 1970s when, after the effects of Khmer Rouge years, Cambodians were struggling to rebuild their lives and the country. With many roads destroyed, the norry was the perfect method of transport.
Phnom Sampeau, 12km from the city, is another historic site. As well as a giant golden Buddha, and pristine wats, there is a monument to the Khmer Rouge genocide in the form of The Killing Caves. Visitors can enter the underground network where victims were pushed to their deaths. Climb a little further up the hill for 360-degree views of the surroundings, and head to the base at dusk to watch an almost endless stream of bats leave the caves.



BOUTIQUES AND EATS
It is easy to navigate the city on foot, so hit the streets to explore its collection of cute coffee shops, bohemian bars and restaurants. Jaan Bai (corner of Streets 2 and 1.5) is a must visit. A giant mural painted by five local artists covers the wall outside; inside is a chic and contemporary eating area. Run by the Cambodian Children's Trust, the food is a delicious mix of local and regional dishes given a modern twist. Jewel in the Lotus (Street 2.5) is an Aladdin's cave of goodies that have been sourced from all over Cambodia as well as other places across the globe. Visitors can get their hands on a host of funky art, trinkets, jewellery, souvenirs and relics from a lost era. Madison Corner is a popular place to grab some food and drinks in the evening.


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Five reasons to visit Battambang

Art on show in studios. Photos: Charles Fox

MEMORY LANE: Walking tours around the city take in many fine examples of colonial architecture.

Art on show in studios.

Khchao Touch

Bats leaving the Killing Caves

The Jewel in the Lotus store

A painting in a restaurant

Coconut-braised beef

Jaan Bai restaurant

A secondhand bookshop

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Travel & Leisure

Cambodia's second largest city has a small town feel and has become the country's artistic hub. Historic sites, top restaurants and the chance to experience rural life nearby make it well worth the trip


Cambodia's second largest city has a small town feel and has become the country's artistic hub. Historic sites, top restaurants and the chance to experience rural life nearby make it well worth the trip.
