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Shen Si (above left) with Shen Ding-jiang. Photos: K.Y. Cheng

Classic Hong Kong food: Mei Ki Heung Bakery, Cheung Sha Wan

The brothers behind one of the city's last niche Chinese cake shops turn out hard-to-find classics

"Our family is from Enping and we're known for making Chinese pastries. That's why we started Mei Ki Heung," says Shum Si, who started the shop with his brother.

The traditional Chinese bakery sells hard-to-find favourites such as doughnut-shaped "lifebuoy" biscuits, thin "pigs' ears" cookies made with fermented tofu and red "pomegranate" dumplings for Lunar New Year, as well as more familiar creations such as wife cakes (below) and mooncakes.

"There used to be plenty of Chinese pastry shops. We're one of the last ones in Hong Kong making these niche items. They're not as popular as they used to be, but if we stop, I wouldn't know what else to do," says Shum.

The brothers came to Hong Kong in the early 1970s, initially selling groceries from a small street stall, but with encouragement and financial support from friends, they were able to start their own cake business in 1979.

These days, their shop in Cheung Sha Wan is fairly quiet, but Shum says they chose this location for the abundant passing trade.

"We opened right near the wet market and it was a busy area. We used to have at least six or seven people queuing at all hours", says Shum.

With the decline in retail sales, Mei Ki Heung's bread-and-butter business is wholesale.

Shum says, "We have our own factory in Enping now and make a lot of mooncakes for other Hong Kong brands, even the new snowy types. And many of the old-fashioned cookies you see around Hong Kong are made by us, too."

 

 

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Princes of pastry
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