Plate to Palate | The roast at Kam's Kitchen is good enough to give you goosebumps

It's almost impossible to avoid comparing Kam's Kitchen with Yung Kee. The latter, of course, is the iconic roast goose restaurant in Central — a multistorey place where the higher you sit, the more VIP you're considered, so the food (reportedly) gets better.

Kam's Kitchen was opened by descendants of the founder, after a battle for control split the family. It probably isn't even a quarter the size of one floor of Yung Kee. The menu is shorter, and the tables are closer together. But based on our meal, you don't have to be a VIP to have a great feed.

It would be silly to eat here without ordering the roast goose (HK$238 for half), which was moist, with papery-thin soft skin, just enough fat and a rich flavour.

The restaurant excels at Cantonese classics. Shrimp toast (listed on the menu as "fried bread with prawns", HK$28 each, minimum order of two) was a good version, with crisp, bread that wasn't oily, and fresh prawns. Oysters with ginger and green onion (HK$198) came sizzling in a clay pot. The oysters were sweet and plump, and came with plenty of fragrant ginger and spring onions.

Braised goose webs with mushrooms (HK$148) were fantastic. The large goose feet had been cooked long and slow, so the skin and tendon were soft but were not falling apart.