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Susan Jung

Shiba
11 Smithfield, Kennedy Town
Tel: 3568 2425
Open: 6.30pm-1am
 
Cuisine: izakaya specialising in kushiyaki (grilled skewers)
Price: about HK$335 without drinks or the service charge.
Ambience: with its dark woods, a long bar in front of the open grill and lived-in look (although it's new), the atmosphere is like many izakaya we've been to in Japan. Two cooks take care of the grilling station, which is partially enclosed by glass in an effort (not entirely successful) to contain the aromas. There's a very good list of Japanese bottled drinks, including some interesting non-alcoholic beverages.

Recommended dishes: grilled ginkgo nuts (HK$20/skewer) were fantastic; they had a slightly chewy texture and the grilling intensified the flavour. The same can said about the sweet corn (HK$22/skewer), which was another favourite. Maitake mushrooms (HK$28) were lovely: the tops were slightly charred and crisp, while the base was juicy. We especially liked the miso pork ribs (HK$36) — the boneless meat was fatty, rich and slightly sweet. House-made shiso minced chicken (HK$34) was soft and moist, with small bits of cartilage giving a subtle crunch. Seasoned cod roe (HK$78) was perfectly cooked so it was still raw in the centre. Whole dried mackerel (HK$88) — minus the head and most of the bones — was meaty with delicately charred skin.
Pros: we ordered all the food at once, but it came at a nice, leisurely pace. The food isn't as salty as it is at other kushiyaki restaurants.
Cons: there wasn't anything we could complain about, other than the chicken skin (HK$24/skewer) was expensive for the portion.
What else? Shiba was opened by the people behind the Japanese whisky bar, Nocturne. The restaurant isn't on the main stretch of Smithfield; it's close to the harbourfront.

 


Restaurant review: Shiba, Kennedy Town - Japanese skewers

Photos: Jonathan Wong

Sweet corn and ginkgo

Miso pork rib skewers and shiso minced chicken. 

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48 Hours

With its dark woods, a long bar in front of the open grill and lived-in look (although it's new), the atmosphere is like many izakaya we've been to in Japan. Two cooks take care of the grilling station, which is partially enclosed by glass in an effort (not entirely successful) to contain the aromas. There's a very good list of Japanese bottled drinks, including some interesting non-alcoholic beverages.


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