Designer Tim Coppens' new line draws inspiration from the street

Ask New York-based Belgian designer Tim Coppens about the inspiration behind his latest collection, and he quotes somewhat foreboding lyrics from The Stone Roses sneering frontman Ian Brown: "When your halo slips for good, you will have to wear your hood".

"It's all about hooligans concealed in elegant design," says Coppens, who was recently in Hong Kong for the arrival of his menswear collection at Lane Crawford. "Disruptive behaviour, melancholy romantics, with a healthy dose of arrogance."

There's a gritty, urban feel to his clothes, which come in light, sporty fabrics cut into sharp silhouettes. For spring-summer 2015, he delivers light bomber jackets, parkas, anoraks, track pants and shorts in a minimalist palette of monochrome, khaki and olive, occasionally punctuated with camouflage print in electric rainbow colours.

There are slightly military, aggressive undertones; he also cites '70s skinhead culture, boxing and the film The Drop (Belgian director Michaël R. Roskam's crime drama about Chechen gangsters in Brooklyn) as recent sources of inspiration.