Restaurant review: Gradini Ristorante Italiano
Classic menu delivers mixed bag of highs and lows
The tall, imposing figure of Giovanni Greggio (who seemed even taller with his chef's toque) was a familiar sight to diners at Nicholini's at the Conrad for many years, way back in the day when having a good Italian meal meant you had to go to a hotel restaurant. The chef retired, but was enticed back to work with an offer to open Gradini Ristorante Italiano at The Pottinger hotel in Central.
The starters sounded dull: minestrone, Caesar salad (prepared at the table), caprese salad, seafood soup and beef carpaccio. We decided to order pasta and main courses
Spaghetti alle vongole veraci (spaghetti with fresh clams, white wine, chilli and garlic, HK$220) was fantastic. The sauce was buttery but light, and so delicious I spooned up every drop after eating the pasta with tender, shelled clams.
My guest was equally happy with his rigatoni alla Norcina piccanti (rigatoni with Tuscan sausage in a spicy tomato sauce, HK$220). The large rigatoni captured the sauce and the small cubes of sausage. There were also nice, thick slices of grilled sausage, adding a smoky flavour.
The mains were far less interesting. Iberico pork loin "Milanese style" (HK$380) had moist meat, but became dull after a few bites. Pan-roasted boneless spring chicken stuffed with mozzarella and Parma ham (HK$300) was better, and the chicken had a plentiful amount of stretchy mozzarella. The pork was served with roast potatoes and the chicken with cannellini beans, but both mains had the same vegetable accompaniments: two tomatoes, underseasoned spinach and mushrooms, and an asparagus spear.
The classic tiramisu (HK$75) was creamy, moist, light and well-balanced.
