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Charley Lanyon

Funky town
Like everyone else in Hong Kong, I am extremely busy. Although I've wanted to visit Zhuhai for years, when I got the chance, I only had about 20 hours for the trip. Luckily, it is possible to enjoy the town's charms on an overnight visit.
Although the town is at its liveliest on Friday nights, thanks to an influx of partygoers from Macau, we discovered on our midweek trip that Zhuhai folk are ready to party on most days.

A ferry from the Sheung Wan terminal will drop you off downtown by around 9pm - perfect for a late dinner and night on the town.
If you're looking for a place to stay, the Zobon Art Hotel, near the ferry pier, has first rate and affordable amenities. The art in the lobby changes often and the beds are super comfortable (although you'll barely be spending any time in them). It makes for a great base from which to explore the city.

A short walk from the Zobon is The London Lounge 1.5, a London-style pub that often features live music and serves what many consider the best burger in Zhuhai. Try the Fat Boy, a thick beef patty stuffed with cheese, jalapeño, bacon and pepperoni and wash it down with a pint of London Pride.
London Lounge is your introduction to a pervasive theme in Zhuhai: a love of all things London. There are two London Lounges, an Oxford Street, and even a fleet of authentic London taxis.

For something a ittle more local, the Prairie Lamb House is a Chinese Muslim restaurant that serves excellent lamb and mutton. If you can take video loops of sheep being butchered, this place is worth the trip by itself. The stir-fried lamb with cumin is recommended.
If you want live music, grab a cab for a short drive to Discover Music Live House. The bands rotate often, but the bass player - who happens to be the owner - doesn't change. The night we visited, a killer band played Canto-pop, Mando-pop and English rock covers. The lead singer's take on the Cranberries gave us chills. The crowd is a mix of locals and expats.

A short drive away is The Cellar. What looks like a chateau from the outside houses Zhuhai's best wine bar, with alcoves full of wine bottles built into the brick walls, each with tasting notes and pairing instructions. Apart from the language on the labels, you could easily be in the French countryside. In less than one hour, we had enjoyed a British, Chinese and French drinking experience.
This diversity is not uncommon, says J.J. Verdun, the founder of Delta Bridges, an online news and listings service for the area, and long-time resident. "Zhuhai is a small city, and compared with pretty much any other small city in China, it is the most international," he says. "It's quaint. It's a bit like what Macau was 20 years ago."

If this all sounds too civilised, grab a cab to "Bar Street". Make your way past the inexplicable bronze statues of cowboys to La Bohemia Portuguese Restaurant, the oldest bar on the strip. La Bohemia is more a drinking and eating spot, but if you want to cut loose, there is no better place than Club 88, just down the road.
Club 88 is one of the older clubs in Zhuhai; it's proudly Chinese in style and very friendly. The DJs mostly play commercial techno, but it's the vibe that sets it apart from other clubs of its ilk: welcoming, warm, and full of people looking to have a good time. For a tourist on a tight schedule, it can be tempting just to stick to Bar Street, but that would be a mistake. Ask any party person in the know and they'll tell you to head to Nanping.

Nanping district, especially the Huafa Century City development, is on the rise. This area is reminiscent of Shenzhen's Coco Park and is home to The Factory, Zhuhai's biggest sports bar, as well as popular - and often rowdy - bars such as The A House. But Miu Miu is the area's real draw. It's Zhuhai's see-and-be-seen club and is a favourite with the city's beautiful people and the destination for most of the people coming from Macau. Expect lots of bottles with sparklers and people tripping over the fashion runway that bisects the dance area. A beautiful DJ is always on stage - though often the music comes from a different DJ hidden in a mirrored closet near the entrance.
Time to head back to the hotel for a good night's sleep (read: two-hour nap).

 
Seize the day
There are real tourist destinations in Zhuhai: the reconstructed Summer Palace comes to mind, but the best way to enjoy Zhuhai if you're there for a limited time is to go for a walk and soak up the ambience.
The fishing port is truly charming, but when we visited, the waterfront was too crowded. We also checked out Oxford Street and frankly recommend you give it a miss. Locals say what started as a street for small student-run local boutiques and cafes has become a warren of, for the most part, overpriced T-shirts and plastic souvenirs.

We headed to Wanzai Seafood Street in Nanping; a bustling row of seafood vendors selling live fish, which you can buy and take to one of the large restaurants behind the market. The meal is not cheap, but it's tasty enough to justify the visit (and it's fast).
A trip to the racetrack is a must. The Zhuhai International Circuit is a world-class Formula One track, the most developed track in China, open to the public and offering opportunities for even beginners to race where the pros race. Just as flight aficionados go to Russia to fly a MiG jet, racing buffs come to Zhuhai to drive the cars of their dreams.

Companies such as Track Torque will get you started for as little as 1,900 yuan (HK$2,400), which covers a basic driving course and track time. Or if you already have a car, you can take it to the track and Track Torque will provide a technician and everything you need for a whole weekend of racing for only 14,000 yuan per car.
"You can rent a car without any experience. As long as you can drive a car with a manual shift," says Nick Winthrope of Track Torque. "We can get you on the track in the same day. We actually make a car here called the TTX. It's basically a beginner-level sports car."
They can do a cool 120 mph (195km/h). "They've got the power," Winthrope says.

A day at the track can be an exhausting endeavour. When you finished you will be feeling sore and tired. This brings us to the other major reason so many people visit Zhuhai: the spas.
On a recommendation, we went to a spa near the land border with Macau. On first impressions it was not particularly promising: located around the back of a dark commercial building, on the third floor with barely any signs. However, once we got inside, the facilities were clean and comforting, and the prices are great: about 200 yuan for more than an hour's full-body massage. You can stay the night for a nominal extra charge. There's something you won't find in Hong Kong.
After a quick massage, you can hop on the ferry and be back at your desk, bright-eyed and ready to work, before your boss even notices you're gone.

 
Good, safe fun in Zhuhai
BOOZER BEWARE
For the most part Zhuhai's nightlife is good safe fun but fake alcohol is a real and growing problem. At best fake booze is mostly water, at its worst you may be drinking something akin to paraffin. Stick to the reputable spots and if you're concerned ask a local.
NI HAO GUV!
Travelling by taxi is one of Zhuhai's greatest pleasures: they are safe, plentiful, and traffic is almost non-existent. In the past few years a local businessman has also introduced a fleet of 90 London taxis, complete with drivers in hats and waistcoats. You pay a bit more for the privilege but much less than a flight to Britain.
MORE FISH IN THE SEA
If you have heard of Zhuhai it is probably for the Zhuhai Chime-Long Ocean Kingdom, the world's largest aquarium complex. Before visiting, bear in mind that the aquarium has been the target of much criticism from environmental and animal rights groups.
 
Zhuhai: "If you go" recommendations
WHERE TO STAY
Zobon Art Hotel
No 33 Middle Lovers Road, tel: 756 322 0333, zobonarthotel.com
 
WHERE TO EAT
The London Lounge 1.5
Zhuhai Jida Qinglu Zhonglu No 12-109, tel: +31 070 312 3456, londonloungezhuhai.com
Prairie Lamb House
338 Qinglu South Road, Xiangzhou, tel: 756 332 7899
Wanzai Seafood Street
Nanping district
 
WHERE TO PARTY 
Discover Music Live House
No 1200 Jiuzhou Road South, tel: 186 6690 1252
The Cellar
Suite 102, Building 1, Yu Hai Wan Hua Yuan, No 231 Shui Wan Road, tel: 756 818 1894, chunshengwine.com
La Bohemia Portuguese Restaurant
Shuiwan Bar Street, Gongbei, tel: 756 889 6683
Club 88
No 203 Shuiwan Bar Street
The Factory
Unit 3113 New Century Plaza, 376 Chang Sheng Road, tel: 756 893 6608, thefactory.com.cn
Miu Miu
No 376 Changsheng Road, Huafa Century City, tel: 756 867 6555, miumiubar.com
 
WHAT ELSE TO DO
Track Torque
T9 Zhuhai International Circuit, Jinding, tel: 756 339 4989. Email: nick@tracktorque.com
 


Zhuhai: great for an action-packed getaway 

Midnight cowboys: Haiwan Bar Street in Zhuhai. Photos: Bruce Yan

Good night: interior (above) and exterior (below) of the London Lounge 1.5.

Dinner dance: The place where people want to see big names and be seen is a club named Miu Miu (above and below).

The bar at The Factory.

Wine bottles in the alcoves at The Cellar.

One of the live bands at the Discover Music Live House.

Enjoy cumin lamb at the Prairie Lamb House (below).

Ocean's heaven: Wanzai Seafood Street, where diners can feast on prawns and tofu, or choose their own fish.

The Zhuhai International Circuit.

Motorhead: Nick Winthrope, of Track Torque, says the company makes a car for beginners called the TTX. Photos: Bruce Yan

Music memorabilia at the Discover Music Live House.

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Zhuhai is one of the Pearl River Delta's most under-appreciated destinations. But in fact it has a lot to offer, as we discover in a fun-filled 20-hour stay


Zhuhai is one of the Pearl River Delta's most under-appreciated destinations. But in fact it is great for a short but action-packed getaway.


Zhuhai: great for an action-packed getaway

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Zhuhai is one of the Pearl River Delta's most under-appreciated destinations. But in fact it has a lot to offer, as we discover in a fun-filled 20-hour stay

Zhuhai is one of the Pearl River Delta's most under-appreciated destinations. But in fact it has a lot to offer, as we discover in a fun-filled 20-hour stay