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Where to get an up-close look at Vietnam's long history of war

Four decades after the fall of Saigon, memorabilia from the country's war with America is attracting adventurous tourists

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Photos: Narina Exelby
Narina Exelby

The thirtiethof April marks the 40th anniversary of the fall of Saigon. While it signalled the end of the Vietnam War, it was not yet the end of what seems an eternity of fighting: in the past 100 years alone, the country has been at war with France, Japan and Thailand, then America, and after that Cambodia and China — and the fall of Saigon ushered in a Hollywood genre that has shaped modern perceptions of this skinny, S-shaped Southeast Asian country, bulldozing over the intricacies of this delicate culture and building on images of pain and destruction.

"We choose to forgive, but we will never forget," so many Vietnamese people — from the north and the south — will tell you. And while the country is now establishing itself as a cultural, culinary and adventure destination, real-life American war stories remain one of the characteristics of this vibrant country.

Hue's old train station.
Hue's old train station.

 

Roll back the years

When the Vietnamese government isolated the country from outside influences after the war, Vespa scooters became status symbols and locals became experts in restoring these Italian icons. These days, you can get to know Ho Chi Minh City a little better by exploring the back streets and markets on a scooter that's been around for more than 40 years. Vespa Adventures (vespaadventures.com) has a small fleet of vintage scooters and a range of tours that includes Insider's Saigon, a fun way to orientate yourself in the city.
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explore the countryside around Hue in central Vietnam by bicycle and you'll be able to stop along small waterways and see boats — still in use — that have been made from the fuselages of American planes. Book a tour with Backyard Travel (backyardtravel.com) and ask for Shi to be your guide: he'll take you to meet one of the city's cycling legends and war heroes ... in a place you'd least expect.
Out-of-the-way temples, and boats made from scraps of destroyed American warplanes (below) are best discovered on bike tours.
Out-of-the-way temples, and boats made from scraps of destroyed American warplanes (below) are best discovered on bike tours.
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