Cindy Chao unveils spectacular 2023 Black Label Masterpieces that continue to break artistic boundaries
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A contemporary jewellery artist like no other, Cindy Chao never ceases to amaze with her visionary works of art. Following the success of her Annual Butterfly creation, “2023 Black Label Masterpiece I Amour Butterfly”, her latest museum-calibre creations, the 2023 Black Label Masterpieces, are destined to become the antiques of the future.
The new Pamir Brooch, Spring Riverside Bangle, and Caribbean Golden Brooch represent the epitome of Chao’s unrivalled artistry. These masterpieces not only push the boundaries of jewellery art but also seamlessly blend Eastern sensibilities and Western craftsmanship, showcasing Chao’s free-spirited creative mindset.
For almost twenty years, Chao has revolutionised the realm of jewellery art by combining her strong foundation in architectural space and sculptural aptitude inherited from her architect grandfather and sculptor father. Her designs are a perfect fusion of art and craftsmanship, using gemstones as mediums for creative expression that go beyond tradition.
The 2023 Black Label Masterpieces offer a glimpse into Chao’s illustrious career and visionary outlook, inviting collectors and enthusiasts to explore her artistic evolution.
A testament to a singular artistic vision
Cindy Chao’s artistic pieces have always been known for their emotional depth and exquisite craftsmanship, and the 2023 Black Label Masterpieces are no exception. Each of these three works represents a milestone in Chao’s artistic journey, demonstrating her uninhibited creative expression and evolution as a jewellery artist since she founded her eponymous brand, CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel, in 2004.
From black and white to vibrant shades
Chao’s artistic process has evolved over time, embodying the spirit of contemporary creativity that challenges convention. In the 2023 Black Label Masterpieces, she departs from her previous stark black-and-white designs with a simpler colour arrangement and embraces a multicolour and exuberant palette as she continues to push the boundaries of craftsmanship. Her groundbreaking works showcase an interplay of light and shadow, stylistic concepts, oil painting techniques, and architectural thinking, unveiling new horizons for the future of jewellery art.
Using the power of “roots and veins” to express nature’s essence
One notable feature of these new works is incorporating the “roots and veins” concept. Chao skilfully embeds powerful and robust veins within her designs’ multi-layered and multi-dimensional structures. These veins serve as a symbol of inspiration from the natural world, representing the artist’s spirit and strength. Chao’s ability to capture the essence of nature in her pieces highlights her mastery of aesthetic principles and her free-form creative style.
The East meets West in the 2023 Black Label Masterpiece II Pamir Brooch
The Pamir Brooch, inspired by the Pamir Plateau (formerly known as the Onion Range), a pivotal point on the ancient Silk Road that marks the border between Eastern and Western cultures, is a testament to Chao’s aesthetic vision that transcends borders. Chao intricately sculpts this masterpiece by employing the traditional wax carving technique, which other jewellery artists seldom practise. The brooch beautifully captures plant growth’s abundant vitality and energy, paying homage to nature’s vibrant life force. A lush plant form intertwines with the crystal-clear glacial landscapes of the Pamir region, harmoniously balancing beauty and serenity.
The magnificence of the Pamir Brooch goes beyond its design. Chao surpasses traditional metal craftsmanship boundaries by leading a team of senior European craftsmen with at least 15 years of experience. Through extensive research and development, and by adhering to the artistic principle of “using the hardest metal to create the softest lines”, they have refined titanium techniques, resulting in a brooch where less than one-third of its weight is attributed to metal. The delicate and slender forms of this masterpiece demand exceptional skills, making it even more impressive.
Featuring 5,786 gemstones, including white, yellow, and brown rose-cut diamonds ranging between 1 and 5.26 carats to create transparency, emeralds, sapphires, garnets, demantoids, and tsavorites, the brooch showcases Chao’s artistry of using gemstones for creative expression, defying traditional notions of a central stone. The newly developed “gradual immersive” technique intertwines anodised titanium veins with gemstones, creating a multi-dimensional and multi-layered balanced composition of contrasts and depth, highlighting the rich spatial structure through the rhythm of light and shadow. With meticulous attention to detail, Eastern sensibility fuses with Western rationality, resulting in a truly captivating work of art.
The 2023 Black Label Masterpiece X Spring Riverside Bangle captures the essence of seasons
The Spring Riverside Bangle is a true celebration of nature’s changing seasons. Inspired by the enchanting Seine River in France, Chao’s creation captures the ever-changing beauty influenced by the seasons. The bangle reflects the swaying branches, delicate hues of the morning sky, and blossoming flowers that grace the river’s ripples.
As renowned artists like Stanislas Victor Édouard Lepine, Vincent van Gogh, and Claude Monet drew inspiration from the Seine River, Chao draws upon its allure to create her masterpiece. Evolving from her previous works in the Black Label Masterpieces collection, the 2020 Black Label Masterpiece VI Reflection Bangle, and the 2021 Black Label Masterpiece XVII The Seine at Dawn Bangle, the 2023 Black Label Masterpiece X Spring Riverside Bangle breaks boundaries with even fresher colours and incorporates Impressionistic techniques.
With meticulous arrangement and a breakthrough multi-layering technique, the 18K white, yellow, and rose gold bangle creates a wondrous play of natural light and shadows, offering a mesmerising visual experience. Adorned with 1,936 gemstones totalling 305.97 carats, including pink sapphires, white and yellow diamonds, sapphires, tourmalines, garnets, tsavorites, and Paraiba tourmalines, the bangle dazzles with its intricate design. Hidden mechanisms allow specific gemstones to rotate, reproducing the sparkling water and infusing the artwork with dynamic effects. This bangle breathes life, evoking the ever-fresh spirit of the Seine River through every minute detail.
The 2023 Black Label Masterpiece III Caribbean Golden Brooch embodies tropical splendour
In the Caribbean Golden Brooch, Chao continues her exploration of the Musa Leaf, as seen in her previous 2022 Black Label Masterpiece Caribbean Summer Brooch. This new masterpiece radiates a pink-golden brilliance, capturing the dazzling glow of a sunset after a tropical rain.
Meticulously sculpted into a 3D form using the lost-wax technique, the titanium leaf exhibits undulations and curvatures that perfectly mimic the organic nature of the natural Musa leaf. Adorned with a 3-carat pear-shaped fancy vivid yellow diamond and artfully embellished with over 1,400 cushion-cut diamonds, the leaf intricately represents the texture of the leaf veins.
Flowing down the centre is the midrib hand-carved from delicate European ox horn. After being highly polished, it showcases a beautiful translucent amber sheen and lustrous texture, accurately reflecting those found in nature.
Cindy Chao’s 2023 Black Label Masterpiece collection not only celebrates her artistic achievements but also offers a glimpse into the future of art jewellery. Her visionary approach and willingness to push boundaries have established her as a trailblazer in the industry, inspiring and influencing the next generation of jewellery artists.