Bold move

FARE Japanese and Italian.

AMBIENCE This is a large restaurant dominated by a huge picture window that offers a spectacular view over the harbour. Tables are arranged in tiers so that everyone gets to enjoy the view.

COST HK$2,000 for two including wine.

WHO TO BRING Visitors from out of town.

TURN-ONS The menu is divided into two sections, Italian and Japanese, but the former isn't as intriguing as the latter. Start with fillet of blowfish (yes the famously poisonous one), though this isn't sashimi. It's sun-dried and soft-grilled to perfection. But even this seems pedestrian when followed by cured sea bream wrapped around perfectly blanched asparagus and topped with black truffle and a sliver of mango. There is a large selection of sushi and sashimi. We decided to save ourselves for the cold Inaniwa udon noodles (pictured) with wagyu beef and the star of the show, simmered lobster with Imo Mochi potato. This is served in a miso broth with shiitake mushrooms and syungiko, which is a kind of chrysanthemum leaf. For desserts, try the banana and mango tempura, while the coconut ice cream with Japanese pepper is a must.