Its bar is tended by experienced mixologists, and house cocktails such as the Seaside and Prince Alfonso are worth trying. However, a private party was working the staff hard on the night we dined, and our order of Bellinis only arrived with our appetiser of fresh giant crab claws.

For mains, we tried the slow-cooked veal cheek served en croûte and the black pork chop from Berkshire (HK$280 each). Both dishes turned out superbly, and our frustration with the drinks order was soon forgotten. The veal was rich and tender, while the pastry cover, which we used to soak up the delicious gravy, was light and flaky. The fennel-crusted pork chop with apple compote was juicy and moist. The sides of mushrooms (HK$80) and fresh arugula (HK$60) were perfect. All portions can easily serve three. A chocolate soufflé served as the grand finale.

SPICY SENSATIONS

Namo serves "avant Thai" - a fusion of Spanish ingredients recommended by chef Alejandro Sanchez from Spain and Thai flavours from chef Wijannarongk Kunchit.

The chicken crispy tenders (HK$118), chicken wrapped in pandan leaves accompanied by roasted pineapple dip, was tender and bursting with spices. The yum yum salad (HK$148) - a combination of smoked hiramasa sashimi with fennel slivers, tangy green mango and crunchy pomegranate tossed with Thai herbs - was fresh and brought a range of herbal and spicy sensations.

The silken grouper steak (HK$198) was an interesting mix of lemongrass, galangal, coriander root, chilli jam and lemon leaf, served with turmeric rice and garlic vegetables. The best dish was the Chiang Mai ribs (HK$218), with the tender, fall-off-the-bone pork ribs in a mild northern Thai curry sauce, served with a pumpkin pureé base and Thai baby cabbage. The restaurant has a cosy, dark interior and attracts locals and tourists. The menu is accompanied by a good selection of Thai beers and international wines. MUKUL MUNISH

TAKING COMFORT

Few chefs have taken Hong Kong by storm like Harlan Goldstein. The New York native and former head chef at the Aberdeen Marina Club is as famous for his string of popular restaurants as his recent weight-loss battles with fellow foodie Alvin Leung. Under all that bravado is a man who loves good food. And the place to find all of Goldstein's favourites - American, Italian, Spanish, Chinese, Singaporean, you name it - under one roof is Comfort. The "Euro loft-style resto" - think wooden tables and exposed ceilings - in the heart of Lan Kwai Fong offers unpretentious fare.

We worked our way through the menu over two visits and found our favourites to be the savoury and sweet pork belly bao with hoisin glaze (HK$108), well-seasoned "bad ass" truffled beef tartare (HK$138), falling-off-the-bone Spanish pork ribs (HK$328), and creamy home-style beef brisket curry (HK$158). Even the starters have something for everyone, including a tangy halloumi cheese and spinach dish (HK$98), and wagyu beef croquettes (HK$108). Dishes are made for sharing, and with affordable drinks and standout desserts, it's hard not feel comfortable at Comfort. Tama Lung

HARLAN GOLDSTEIN’S COMFORT
5/F, Grand Progress Building
15-16 Lan Kwai Fong
Central
2521 8638

IT’S THE PLACE TO BE

With the backing of the trendy Maximal Concepts restaurant group (Brickhouse, Blue Butcher) and a head chef who has worked under Alain Roux and Gordon Ramsay, Fish & Meat was proclaimed the next "it" restaurant even before it opened. The so-called antidote to the constant wave of new dining trends focuses on fresh ingredients.

We kicked off with a selection of small dishes, including an interesting sea urchin bruschetta (HK$95) topped with a layer of cured pig fat, and the fresh tagliatelle (HK$120) with chicken and truffle emulsion.

From the selection of large dishes, the pan-fried sea bream (HK$180) was perfectly cooked with a light green pea purée, while the veal chop Milanese (HK$390) was thick yet tender but overly salted. While the food had its hits and misses, the service on the night we visited was mostly misses. Tama Lung

SMALL OFFERINGS

Restaurateur Yenn Wong and celebrity chef Jason Atherton collaborate again with the opening of Ham & Sherry. Originally a drinking spot for those waiting for a table at their nearby 22 Ships, Ham & Sherry has become a destination on its own. Offering small plates and tapas, and with more than 50 types of sherry, they have made sherry drinking cool.

We sit watching chefs slice from large legs of jamon, while hocks of cured ham hang behind glass from the ceiling above. We start with Iberico paleta aged 36 months and Jamon de Teruel PDO aged 24 months (HK$158), followed by delicious pan con such as gambas, fennel and aioli (HK$90) - or shrimp on toast, blue cheese, pear, radicchio and walnut (HK$60). The paella arincini chorizo and pepper purée (HK$58) is also a must-try. The desserts of crème Catalan, berries and crumbled hazelnuts (HK$48) and warm chocolate mousse with candied orange (HK$48) are rich. Tracey Furniss

Ham & Sherry
G/F, 1-7 Ship Street
Wan Chai
2555 0628

BISTRO CHIC

If you are looking for a Paris bistro experience, Plat du Jour ticks all the boxes. Seating up to 60 people, the interior is chic and cosy. Celebrity chef David Laris crafted the menu of traditional French bistro favourites. We opted for starters of steak tartare with grass-fed Australian beef tenderloin, capers, Dijon mustard, slow-cooked egg and toasted sourdough bread. The portion was generous with balanced flavours. The escargot in garlic butter and parsley with baguette did not disappoint, but it was the lobster bisque that wowed us.

For mains, the beef bourguignon - braised US top-grade beef cooked in wine with carrots, baby onions and mushrooms with potato puree - warmed and delighted the palate. The mussels in white wine and cream sauce with parsley, shallots and pomme frites lacked some flavour. For dessert, the apple tarte tatin with caramelised apple in puff pastry with vanilla ice cream should not be missed. The set menu has six to seven choices per course and costs HK$185 for two courses and HK$225 for three, all day. Tracey Furniss

PLAT DU JOUR
21 Hoi Wan Street
Island East
2789 4200

 DELICIOUS CONCEPT

Saturday evening is the time to see how a restaurant performs under pressure. Umberto Bombana's chic eatery - an open-dining concept inspired by Italian grocery stores - passed with flying colours. From the tasty home-made breads to the heavenly apple tart and pistachio ice cream, there wasn't a single glitch.

The delicious starters of octopus and potato salad with artichoke and lemon olive oil dressing, and pan-fried scamorza - arugula and datterino tomato salad with balsamic vinegar dressing - could have easily been shared, as the portions were substantial. The mains raised the bar further. The lasagnette was a tantalising mix of home-made sausage, mushroom and buffalo mozzarella, while the penne arrabiata offered just the right amount of spice.

The scoops of strawberry and chocolate gelato, served with crumble and mixed berries, were exquisite. The apple tart, however, was in a class of its own.

We will be back. At a cost of nearly HK$1,100 for two, including two glasses of red wine, it offers good value for money. Rachel Williamson

NAUTICAL NOSTALGIA

In the quiet enclave of Kau U Fong in Central sits a slice of nautical nostalgia. A blend of a semi-open area, colourful interior and consistent flow of diners gives Le Port Parfumé a homely bistro vibe. As enticing as its glass fish buoys, old captain's uniform, colourful bottles and rustic décor are the items on its chalkboard menu.

A good starter is the home-made charcuterie. With a combo of rabbit terrine, duck rilelette, Bayonne ham, and saucisson, it is a delightful tease of tastes and textures. We followed this with an interesting marriage of smoked pigeon and figs plus Josper grilled wild seabream. The tea-smoked pigeon was cooked beautifully - with a lasting earthy flavour, just a slight crisp of the skin, and a fresh bite of figs. The traditional, oven-cooked fish was just as mouthwatering - fresh, lightly grilled, and oozing with lemon butter sauce.

From a sweet banana tarte tatin paired with a kick from ginger ice cream to the wave of honeycomb alongside a subtle blue cheese gelato, the desserts were a delight. With patience on the wait, any sailor's palate would attest to a delectable experience. Jamie Ferrer

Le Port Parfume
Shop C, 6-10
Kau U Fong
Central
2824 3018