Bistecca
2/F, Grand Progress Building, 15 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2525 1308

Italian steakhouse.

Relaxed and rustic.

Steaks range from HK$398 to HK$998; antipasti, salads and pasta are all under HK$200.

Carnivores, friends and family.

It's all about the meat here. The Australian wagyu beef - sourced from Oakleigh Ranch and exclusive to Bistecca - is the best in terms of flavour, although those looking for melt-in-your-mouth goodness should opt for the Japanese A5 Kobe sirloin. The steaks are aged to perfect tenderness and flavour, and served drizzled with olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt. For sides, there's no beating the truffle fries, cut with the skin on for more flavour and texture, and fried to the perfect crisp. If calories aren't an issue, the Fontina fondue with white truffle and grilled ciabatta is a must-have, although the truffle flavour was smothered by the accompanying rosemary and the cheese.

Service was patchy. When we arrived, the receptionist was on the phone and, instead of waving over a colleague to seat us, kept us waiting until the call was finished. And the wait staff were friendly but not well-trained: when asked why Bistecca sourced from Oakleigh Ranch for its Australian wagyu, they had no idea.

A good selection of wines.