French wine bar Figaro hidden in Central serves Michelin-star worthy dishes

Tracey Furniss

PUBLISHED : Monday, 20 June, 2016, 11:11pm
UPDATED : Monday, 20 June, 2016, 11:11pm

2 Shin Hing Street, Central, 2757 1777


A hidden gem, this quaint French wine bar on the Shin Hing steps between Hollywood Road and Gough Street opened in January, but has only now started serving food in its upstairs space.

The menu is small, but dishes are worthy of a Michelin-star - not surprising, as chef Jon Irwin has worked with the best, including at Restaurant Alain Milliat, Akrame and Pierre Gagnaire in Paris and at the legendary Le Moulin de Mougins.

At Figaro, dishes are made for sharing. We were recommended the Domaine Josmeyer, Fleur de Lotus 2013 from Alsace to pair with our starter of the fine cheese platter (HK$170, three cheeses) and charcuterie platter (HK$160 with three choices), bruschetta, pesto, aubergine and tapenade (HK$75) and a light and refreshing langoustine tartare and cucumber consommé (HK$115).

The pollock, asparagus with oyster and gin emulsion, salmon and herring roe (HK$140) was a good combination of flavours. The fish was tender and the emulsion with the roe did not overpower the delicate taste of the pollock. My favourite dish was the sweet and sour lamb two ways sitting on an apple and shiso foam (HK$146), which paired well with the Cote du Rhône - Domaine Yves Cuilleron Syrah Les Candives 2012.

For dessert, the poached white peach with lemongrass, sorbet, cardamom mousse and smoked cream (HK$85) was a refreshing end, but was not too sure about the deconstructed tarte tatin (HK$85). Wine aficionados will enjoy a few more vintages downstairs after dinner. There are 10 wines by the glass (HK$80 to HK$120 per glass), with a special category "fine wine by the glass" (HK$150 to HK$300).