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Justifying the journey: Chef Tam's modern twist on Chinese cuisine at Pearl Dragon makes it all worthwhile

Tracey Furniss

Good Eating

PEARL DRAGON
Shop 2111, Level 2, Star Tower at Studio City, 853 8865 6560

 

The Pearl Dragon Chinese restaurant is located in the relatively new Studio City Hotel which, although part of the City of Dreams group, is on the far side of the Cotai Strip. The restaurant is on the second floor of Star Tower. With an elegant interior in beige and olive green, plush carpets and crystal chandeliers, the main dining area overlooks the casino floor behind a glass window, but for privacy, there are nine elegant rooms of various sizes. We dined in a spacious private room, with a white-clothed table for two or four and a sofa area, and its own bathroom.

Michelin-star chef Tam Kwok-fung, who also oversees Jade Dragon at the City of Dreams, and chef Lam Yuk-ming have created some excellent Chinese dishes with modern twists. My favourite was their modern take on char siu bao on the appetiser platter - the crunchy bun was topped with Iberico char siu, mushroom and foie gras. More traditional is the pork dumpling with abalone and deep-fried taro dumpling stuffed with mushroom and truffles, which also tasted delicious and fresh. The hot and sour soup with Hokkaido hairy crab was an excellent balance of flavours. We loved the stir-fried Brittany lobster with asparagus and caviar and the delicate poached vegetable sprout with lily bulbs and lily flowers in supreme broth.

We ended with tossed noodles with Iberico char siu in oyster sauce and a sweet baked pudding with lotus paste, sago and vanilla bean. This dessert was the showstopper, it was deliciously smooth and creamy. Chef Tam is definitely one of my favourite chefs in Macau. His dishes never disappoint and are worth the trip from Hong Kong. 

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Modern Chinese
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