Arcane restaurant in Hong Kong delivers on all fronts

Many à la carte restaurants set high expectations with impeccable plating, but fail to deliver in flavour. Arcane does not have that problem.

Favouring a classic Western palate, dishes are consistently delicious and, while sophisticated, are designed to let the ingredients shine.

Ingredients are key to Arcane’s signature, as most are imported from Japan, Europe and Australia and inform a seasonal menu. Others are grown in-house: Alfresco dining on the terrace allows a peek at Australian founder Shane Osborn’s garden, where he grows herbs, fruits and vegetables.

Intended to be a hideaway from streetside noise and crowded malls, Arcane balances quiet tables on the terrace with an open kitchen that reveals a glimpse at the action.

The set lunch comes in two or three courses (HK$310 and HK$380) and starts with a salad of salt cod mousse, flaked salmon, celery, toasted almond and radish – or the poached taiyouran egg with shiitake, broccoli and truffle. We opted to share both – and neither disappointed.

For mains, you can opt for the pan-fried seabream served with capers and watercress, which frame the oily fish well, or braised wagyu beef with roast red onion and bacon. The latter was superbly tender. If Arcane ever offers a Sunday roast, we’ll be first in line.