Hung Tong serves contemporary Cantonese cuisine with creative licence. The modern interiors by designer Andre Fu hint at an older Hong Kong, and with a nod to Hung Hom’s 19th-century dockyards.

Seated with a harbour view, we started with the deep-fried shrimp balls in salted egg yolk (HK$138) and mixed wild mushroom and tomato in chicken broth (HK$128). The soup was light, with subtle ingredients, and yet brimmed with flavour. This dish was one of our favourites.

The barbecued prime Iberico pork (HK$288) was not overly sweet, despite being coated in maple syrup, and served as an interesting update on a classic. On the side, we chose the braised wild mushrooms with truffles and fried bean curd sheet (HK$178), which added an umami touch to the meal.

Most impressive was the wok-fried scallops with truffle and Chinese broccoli (HK$268). The seared scallops were fresh and flavourful, and the decadent slices of black truffle didn’t hurt either. Served on a bed of asparagus, this dish stole the show.

Ending our night on the adjacent Red Sugar bar’s wraparound terrace, we submitted to commanding views - and the ample menu provides more reason to linger.