Casa Lisboa Gastronomia Portuguesa in Hong Kong is the pride of Portugal

Serving magnificent Portuguese fare, the restaurant in Central is sophisticated but unpretentious

PUBLISHED : Tuesday, 05 September, 2017, 7:34am
UPDATED : Tuesday, 05 September, 2017, 11:12am

Blue chairs, white table cloths and walls, a wood bar counter and just the right amount of Portuguese tiles give this restaurant a sophisticated but unpretentious feel. The service was impeccable - the staff were knowledgeable, attentive and charming.

When the food was served, we were completely convinced: Portuguese brown crab “sapateira”, marinated and stuffed (HK$155), was a pure labour of love. The cooked crustacean was picked out by hand and mixed with mayonnaise, onion and celery, giving it a silky texture while highlighting the seafood flavour. Portuguese octopus confit in Moscatel wine and grilled, kale and smashed potatoes (HK$280) was the result of hours of preparation - evident from the firm, but gooey texture.

Clams done traditionally, “bulhao pato” (HK$115), were light in texture, but bursting with goodness and the piri-piri quail with fresh tomato, garlic and olive oil molho (HK$180) was tender with the right balance of spices and sweetness. Yet the true scene stealer was suckling pig, slow roasted “a bairrada” (HK$260) - slightly crispy skin and melt-in-the-mouth meat.

The Portuguese wine list is well curated, with a good selection of by-the-glass options. The “green wine” Morgadio do Torre 2014 (HK$90 per glass) is highly recommended for its rich bouquet.

The new executive chef, Fábio Pombo, told us he first learned how to cook from his family and, while all the dishes were professionally set and presented, there was certainly a touch of home in each one.