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Ying Jee Club: Cantonese classics with delightful eye for details

Sliced giant grouper with rice in fish broth proves unexpected highlight at high-end restaurant where attentive staff focus on the little things

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The interior of Ying Jee Club, a high-end high-end Cantonese restaurant in Central.
David Vetter

The entrance to Ying Jee Club offers an indication of what this high-end Cantonese restaurant offers. Secreted away on the upper-ground floor of the Nexxus Building, the façade is a plain wall with a discreet sign bearing the establishment’s name.

Once inside we were greeted by a team of attentive staff who were delighted to go into great detail about each menu option, with seven or eight options per category - be it the chef’s recommendations, poultry, seafood or vegetarian pages.

The amuse-bouche was a duck terrine with crispy goji berries, and a spoonful of braised bean curd in fish stock: both delicately flavoured, finely balanced morsels fired a desire for more.

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Stir fried sliced lobster with shallot, red onion and spring onion, served at Central’s Ying Jee Club.
Stir fried sliced lobster with shallot, red onion and spring onion, served at Central’s Ying Jee Club.

We began with the Jing Yee combination platter (HK$200), comprising four tiny appetisers: the marinated diced beef shin with jellyfish and home-made XO sauce was the stand-out offering.

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Then we moved on to the chef-recommended stir-fried lobster with shallot, red and spring onions (HK$380 per person) - the tiny, halved crustacean was beautifully presented, but perhaps overpowered by the onion.

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