Meats offers succulent, filling reasons to dine out in Hong Kong

SoHo restaurant offers alarmingly drinkable cocktails and delicious meaty courses, including hot chicken wings and excellent Iberian pork chops

PUBLISHED : Tuesday, 10 April, 2018, 2:30pm
UPDATED : Wednesday, 11 April, 2018, 11:23am

It’s Friday evening, and time to check out Meats – which now takes reservations. The sharing menu (HK$420 per person) is recommended as it comprises a selection of Meats’ favourites. Before we tuck in, we try a few cocktails (all HK$95): The Poblano Popper is reminiscent of a Bloody Mary. The Fruits of Labour is based on Laird’s Applejack and is subtle and alarmingly drinkable.

The chicken wings (HK$90 if à la carte) are first to arrive: they’re cooked in Meats’ own hot sauce and served with pickled celery. The wings are succulent; the skin packs an umami wallop. Meats’ blue cheese dressing is the real deal, with a mature heft to it. We also try the beef tartare (HK$150), which is smooth yet chunky, whole mustard seeds and crunchy capers providing zing.

The hanger steak with Korean marinade and jalapeño (HK$180) is the highlight: it’s marinated in a sauce of Meats’ own devising, seared medium rare, served sliced. The Iberian pork chops with Jerusalem artichoke purée (HK$170) have the abundant flavour that bespeaks top-quality ingredients.

We are brought a tray of roasted broccolini, which provides a welcome contrast to the barrage of meaty dishes. Our final course includes a well-rounded lamb shank with mash (HK$190), plus “slightly spicy” fried rice (HK$65), and a tray of skinny fries (the “Glasgow Salad”; HK$45). By this point, our stomachs had passed the level of “full” and we weren’t able to finish everything. To end, we shared a coconut lime pie (HK$80), of lime curd, meringue and coconut ice cream – a refreshing way to end an excessively meaty experience. David Vetter