It’s Friday evening, and time to check out Meats – which now takes reservations. The sharing menu (HK$420 per person) is recommended as it comprises a selection of Meats’ favourites. Before we tuck in, we try a few cocktails (all HK$95): The Poblano Popper is reminiscent of a Bloody Mary. The Fruits of Labour is based on Laird’s Applejack and is subtle and alarmingly drinkable.

The chicken wings (HK$90 if à la carte) are first to arrive: they’re cooked in Meats’ own hot sauce and served with pickled celery. The wings are succulent; the skin packs an umami wallop. Meats’ blue cheese dressing is the real deal, with a mature heft to it. We also try the beef tartare (HK$150), which is smooth yet chunky, whole mustard seeds and crunchy capers providing zing.

The hanger steak with Korean marinade and jalapeño (HK$180) is the highlight: it’s marinated in a sauce of Meats’ own devising, seared medium rare, served sliced. The Iberian pork chops with Jerusalem artichoke purée (HK$170) have the abundant flavour that bespeaks top-quality ingredients.