FARE Indian and Central Asian. AMBIENCE Jo Jo has been around since 1985 and, until recently, the interior had dark wood furniture, Indian yellow walls and ethnic trimmings. A recent renovation, however, has given it the feel of a slick hotel restaurant. The ethnicity is expressed more artfully through elegant textures on the wallpaper and upholstery. COST An appetiser, a main course and a serving of Indian bread come to about HK$250. WHO TO BRING Good for friends’ gatherings and casual business meetings. TURN-ONS The chana (chickpea) chaat, with the addition of pomegranate, was a triumph in seasoning and texture. The ajwaini fish tikka featured a whole fillet of cod seasoned with pounded carom seed, mustard oil and home-made spices, and was perfectly browned outside and smooth and succulent inside. The methi palak papad ki subzi (a mash of spinach and fresh fenugreek, topped with fried papad) seemed a simple dish, but it got better at every bite. The kulfi (Indian ice cream, mango or pistachio) had the right combination of sweetness, creaminess and spices, and the syrup and rich milk sauce in the gulab jamun struck the perfect balance. TURN-OFFS The jujeh kebab, an Iranian recipe of overnight saffron-marinated grilled boneless chicken was, while well-seasoned (with lemon, onion, saffron, salt, pepper and olive oil), on the dry side. DRINKS A range of cocktails – including a very potent Old Fashioned – are on offer from the bar, and there is a reasonable wine list.