If you don’t know someone who has either been to the original Sushi Saito in Tokyo or now at the Four Seasons Hong Kong, good luck trying to get a place at the table at the eight-seat (soon to be 16-seat) restaurant.

When we first got confirmation that we had seats, the mood was euphoric. I was warned not to be late as the sushi waited for no one and, indeed, at 6pm sharp, chef Ikuya Kobayashi - protégé of chef Takashi Saito - started to prepare the meal, even though the last two people had yet to arrive. First up was the Hokkaido horsehair crab. Fresh and succulent, it was served with a dab of mild vinegar, which helped to bring out the meat’s sweetness. This was followed by pregnant spear squid. The egg added a nice, creamy taste to the sweet squid. The yuzu-dusted monkfish liver, the dual uni (sea urchin) from Kyushu and Aomori, and the grilled sea perch rounded up our favourites from the starters.

After that, the evening passed in a whirl, as Kobayashi served piece after piece of seasonal nigiri sushi. Highlights were the horse mackerel served with a dollop of puréed chives, and the sweet prawn, which was cooked just enough to give it a soft, warm texture. The marinated tuna and the tuna belly were also excellent. As the meal proceeded, it was apparent how superior and fresh the fish was. One of the selling points of the Hong Kong restaurant is that it serves the exact menu as Sushi Saito in Tokyo.