Le Pan serves sublime contemporary French fare in ‘leafy part of Kowloon Bay’

Try the large restaurant’s Brittany blue lobster or sample the well-executed Miyazaki wagyu with an impressive choice of French wines

PUBLISHED : Monday, 18 June, 2018, 2:02pm
UPDATED : Monday, 18 June, 2018, 2:02pm

FARE Contemporary French. AMBIENCE An expansive 10,000-square-foot, white-marbled space with leather, crystal chandeliers, a glass-fronted wine cellar and warm accents of lavender making it grand but also cosy. Four well-appointed private dining rooms, each with their own outdoor terrace, ensure privacy. WHO TO BRING Guests to impress. TURN-ONS The dishes ranged from impressive to sublime. We were first treated to bon bon canapes, morsels that surprised, including an olive bursting with nectar. The royal beluga caviar, botan shrimps and crustacean jelly is oceanic goodness presented in a glass-encased ice bowl. The Cancale whelk ravioli, fermented black bean, beurre blanc and fine citrus perfectly showcased chef Edward Voon’s worldly edge - the Chinese condiment added a tasty dimension to this French dish. The seabass, cabbage, mussel bouillon, Oscietra caviar and emulsion de bar was another layered seafood dish with a lingering flavour. The Brittany blue lobster, Charlotte potato (crisps), pickled beetroot and aromatic sauce was a triumph in texture and taste. The Miyazaki wagyu, French asparagus à l’orange, and red wine sauce was a sensational experience. TURN-OFFS The restaurant’s website describes its district as the “leafy part of Kowloon Bay”, but in fact, it is a sterile, newly developed business district with a row of skinny trees. DRINKS The restaurant’s more than 1,000 bottles of wine include eminent vintages from Bordeaux and Burgundy.