Kung fu theme packs a punch at Hong Kong-style Dragon Noodles Academy

FARE Traditional Cantonese with a modern twist.

AMBIENCE Restaurant group Dining Workshop – the folks behind Yum Cha and its incredibly cutesy dim sum dishes – have a history of updating traditional Hong Kong cuisine. They have done a similar job with the decor here. The kung fu-inspired interior features voluminous red lanterns hanging from the ceiling and a large golden dragon clinging to the wall near the entrance, while the corrugated iron above the bar area mimics the sort of tiling seen on traditional Chinese buildings. It is a little kitschy but other sharp design elements – the dark-green leather upholstery, the decorative tiling on the floor – help elevate it and stop it from feeling too cheesy.

COST Very reasonable. Expect to pay about HK$400 per head if you are not drinking much.

WHO TO BRING Friends for a casual gathering or visitors from out of town.

TURN-ONS The crispy lobster puffs came gorgeously plated, set between the head and tail of a lobster. The pastry was deliciously sweet and stuffed with plenty of meat. The wok-fried diced Angus beef with black pepper was perfectly tender and well seasoned. It was bested only by the Iberico pork fillets, basically fancy char siu, served as nice thick slices of lean meat that have a delightful piquancy.

TURN-OFFS The broth in our wonton in lobster soup with noodles was disappointingly bland.