FARE High-end Japanese kuroge Wagyu.

AMBIENCE Restrained Ginza chic.

COST The 12-course omakase menu will set you back HK$1,280 per person (plus 10 per cent).

WHO TO BRING Great for business meals or any carnivorous friends.

TURN-ONS Securing quality meat is half the battle for any yakiniku restaurant worth its salt. Fortunately, Yakiniku Jumbo has that locked down given all its cuts are of the highest possible A5 beef ranking. Each slice is hand-cut from a hunk that is chilled rather than frozen, ensuring the meat never loses its tenderness. The noharayaki, a “Yakiniku Jumbo original” now much imitated, a slice of Wagyu sirloin marinated in tare sauce and then dipped into a beaten egg yolk before being swiped across the grill, is so delicious we’re tempted to drain our small serving bowl of the eggy, beefy mix left behind. The grilled Wagyu nigiri mounts a slice of the “best cut of the day” atop a mound of Japanese rice à la nigiri sushi. The meat is impossibly tender and the addition of rice, while simple, makes for a nice contrast to many of the courses that are purely meat. The cuts from around the rump are the stand-outs. One is so thick with marbling it practically melts in our mouth, while another, with a more subtle flavour, has an incredibly silky texture akin to tofu pudding. Speaking of desserts, the sesame ice cream paired with a white coffee cream is a startling combination of two strong flavours that complement each other perfectly.