Saving Face

YES

Science has come a long way in recent years, and anti-aging formulas are only getting better, says Lizzie Malone

We live in a world where wrinkles, once a sign of wisdom and experience, encourage disrespect, where laughter lines ironically cause untold misery and where Botox injections are as common as vaccinations. Our world is fascinated by youth, and the billion-dollar cosmetics industry is more than happy to take advantage of that fact.

But can anti-aging creams do any good? Skeptics would have us believe that so-called “miracle products” are little more than clever marketing. However, with so much money being poured into developing new and innovative anti-aging formulas, and an consumers becoming increasingly demanding, there is mounting evidence that these creams may have some benefits after all.

But first, what is aging? Dr. Stephen Chow from the DrHB CLINIC tells us that there are two types of aging—Intrinsic and Extrinsic. “Intrinsic (internal) aging is caused by the genes we inherit. It is a natural aging process that normally begins in adulthood. This is unavoidable and any prevention or treatment can only slow down but not completely stop the process.” Collagen production slows, and elastin, the substance that enables skin to snap back into place, has a bit less spring leading to a saggy appearance. In addition, our pigment containing cells decrease, resulting in thinner and more translucent skin, while the loss of body fat underneath the skin means that the skin looks less plump and smooth. As if this wasn’t enough, dead skin cells do not shed as quickly and turnover of new skin cells may decrease slightly leaving a worn, dull and dry appearance. Extrinsic aging by contrast is when “a number of extrinsic, or external, environmental factors often act together with the normal aging process to prematurely age our skin. They are largely preventable but most premature aging is caused by sun exposure (photo-aging).” This manifests itself in age spots, leathery and loose skin, fine wrinkles and a blotchy complexion.

However, creams may be—as they say—hope in a jar. While a miracle cure for the natural aging process may be several years away, many cosmetics companies have developed special anti-aging lines, emphasizing the medical science behind them. These products can offer fresher, brighter and plumper skin, which result in an effective—albeit temporary—appearance of youth. Dr. Thomas Chris Tam from Dr Image explains that the ingredients in anti-aging creams can “counter the effects of or reduce the amount of free radicals which damage the skin, leading to premature wrinkle formation."

In their quest for eternal youth, scientists working for beauty companies often combine old and new beauty anti-aging remedies for double the benefits. One such product is Chantecaille’s Nano Gold Energizing Cream, which combines futuristic nanotechology and gold for younger-looking skin. Sure, it might sound hokey, but gold has long been recognized for its beautifying and rejuvenating properties. Today, many spas from India to America offer gold leaf facials, as the metal has been proven to possess anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and detoxifying properties. According to Dr. Tam, “gold has been used in the past as an anti-inflammatory agent for eczema and psoriasis. Any inflammation in the skin contributes to wrinkle formation and uneven pigmentation of the skin.” But what about the “nano” bit? Dr. Tam explains: “The smaller the molecule size (a nanometer is one billionth of a meter) the better the penetrating ability of the active ingredient. In the past, skin care products relied upon ‘transporters’ such as retin A—which can irritate the skin during application—to allow the main ingredient to penetrate deeper in the dermis.” In this particular cream, nanoparticles of gold, bound with silk peptides, penetrate deep into the pores to stimulate cell regeneration and the production of collagen, resulting in visibly firmer and healthier skin.

Another popular product is själ skincare’s Cela Intuitif. Winner of InStyle Magazine’s “best beauty buys,” this light cellular renewal cream targets extrinsic aging through the use of algae, or seaweed extract. Rich in antioxidants, this “intelligent algae” is a very good natural moisturizer and has the ability to combat inflammation and soothes irritated skin. According to Dr. Tam, “algae binds water to the skin and helps to plump and hydrate. It also has high-level antioxidants to repair and protect the skin from further sun damage.”