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'Po Town

An influx of artistic types is turning Sham Shui Po into an alt-culture hotspot. We visit some of the artists in their homes to see what they’ve done to creatively transform their personal spaces, and maybe eventually the whole neighborhood. By Patricia Choi, photos by Tan Xue

8-MIN READ8-MIN
'Po Town

Jacko, 24

Nationality: Hong Kong Chinese
Vocation: Stylist and DJ
Pick a color to sum up this neighborhood. Yellow, because it is full of energy.
What do you like about this neighborhood?
It’s very convenient, laundry is cheap, it’s quiet, the area is not so crowded.
What do you hate most about this neighborhood
. The wet market doesn’t have much choice. But I feel like it’s a real neighbourhood here because I can just go down to the street anytime regardless of how I am dressed, whereas if I lived in Causeway Bay I would need to dress up before I go down.
What do you think about the DJ scene in Hong Kong? Not many people listen to techno and house music in Hong Kong—most people listen to hip-hop and R&B.
How much time do you spend in the space pictured per day? 15-16 hours
What was the most important thing that happened to you when you were younger? The first dance contest I was in really blew me away. The crowd and scale of the party were absolutely overwhelming. I then started learning turntables and the mixer machines at my hair salon. They were more interesting than playing video games.
What’s your biggest fear? Losing my hands, because everything I do is related to my hands.
How many pets do you have? Four cats

Ar Suet, 29

Nationality: Hong Kong Chinese
Vocation: Poet
Describe your daily routine. I wake up at 7am, have breakfast one hour later, go out for yoga, then go back home and go online, log onto MSN and Facebook and read books and listen to music, have lunch at 1, then go online and MSN and Facebook and read books and listen to music, dinner at 7, then watch boring TV dramas, then bed at 10. Everyday is like this.
How do you sum up this neighborhood? Aging gracefully.
What are your five favorite things about this neighborhood? The rent is cheap, it’s near my parents’ home, quiet but convenient, old neighborhood, people are kind.
What are the five things you dislike the most about this neighborhood? The wet market doesn’t have much choice, the PARKnSHOP opposite to Pioneer Center doesn’t have much choice. There are always people screaming suddenly at night which is very terrifying, the fruit juice shop opens too late in the day, there are no good parks.
Do you and your neighbors greet each other? We smile.
What do you think about your industry in Hong Kong?
I used to work in advertising agency before. I hate advertising in Hong Kong, they think that “absurd and hard to understand” equates to cool, which is very stupid. And government advertising is all about slogans, they treat Hong Kong citizens like retards.
How much time do you spend in the space pictured? Almost from dusk till dawn everyday.
What is the best piece of advice that you have been given? Suppressing is bad, control is good.

Jing Wong, 27

Nationality: Hong Kong Chinese (and British)
Vocation: Musician and fashion designer
Please list the places in the neighborhood you visited in the last seven days. “Teen Teen Geen Meen” is a local wonton shop that I frequent. I’m also a regular at the 7-11s.
Pick a color to sum up this neighborhood and describe why. I think it’s a multi-toned red. It’s crowded and warm... vibrant with energy... and it really has this mixture of random things... The energy makes it all red... but there are so many layers to it... and you can find secondhand stuff here. There are thousands of restaurants, from dai pai dongs to slick Japanese restaurants to meaty steaks cooked by an ex-Peninsula chef in a dodgy corner... and there are flowers and birds and fish... and a lot of fabrics and materials right down the street... seriously, you get everthing. Oh, and I forgot to mention the dozens of 7-11 and Circle-K convenient stores that accompany the restaurants that stay open all night.
One single word you would use to describe this area
. BOOM!
Describe five things that you like about this neighborhood. There seems to be a huge variety of people living here. I’ve bumped into a lot of creative people here. There is a variety of food. Transportation is amazing. There is a park beside the Mong Kok soccer pitch, and a lot of secondhand shops!
Describe five things that you hate most about this area. Too many people, a lot of buildings without lifts, it’s dusty. I only have three things I dislike.
Are you inspired by this neighborhood? Yes, it’s very inspiring! Birds, fishes, noodles, triad members fighting on the streets at 3am in the morning, policemen teaming up on their beat, the post-modern feel to some of the restaurants decorations vs food vs the crowd they get...
What is the best piece of advice that you have been given? If you aim at the moon, even if you fail you’ll fall on the stars.
Number of lovers? One girlfriend, one guitar.

BM, one day old
(“On my planet, one hour is one year.”)

Nationality: Hongkonger!
Vocation: Painter
Pick a color to describe this neighborhood. Fluorescent pink. You’ll know why if you visit Sham Shui Po at night.
Why did you move to this area? I can get any shit
I want here.
Describe five things you like about this area.
The feathers on Bird Street, the oxygen at Flower Street, the fake toys on Toy Street, the secondhand things at Ap Liu Street, the garments and fabrics on Garment Street (Tai Nan Street).
Describe five things that you hate most about this area. The bird cages on Bird Street, the excess water all over the place on Flower Street, the prices of the fake toys on Toy Street, the $220 I paid for a fan on Ap Liu Street, the dust all over the fabrics on Garment Street (Tai Nan Street).
What do you do in the day? I spend time wanting to paint in the day.
What do you do at night? I start painting at night.
What’s your ideal job? A traveler, a sailor.
What would you like this neighborhood to have? It’s got enough stuff, but I’d like to add a lake, a forest, a castle and more good-looking people.
What was the most important thing that happened to you when you were younger? When I opened my eyes after coming out of my mother.
Who are your heroes? Marvel Comics superheroes.

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