Laksa Love

Noodle soups abound in every culture that came in contact with the Chinese. In Malaysia, the Peranakans (descendents of Chinese and Malay) created one of the earliest fusion foods: laksa noodles in aromatic, spicy soup blends. There are two main types, the curry-like laksa lemak (in a rich coconut gravy) and asam laska (a tart tamarind fish stock) from Penang. Here are the finest bowls of this goodness in town.

Katong

Named after an area of Singapore with its own distinct style of laksa lemak (coconut), laksa Katong is a strong candidate for the competitive title of Singapore’s national dish, and this small restaurant that’s been open since 2004 is a strong contender for our city’s best laksa as well. Upon entering, you’re hit by the pungent barrage of prawn essence that fills the place thanks to the authentic prawn mee being whipped up behind the counter. Their curry laksa contains prawns, fish cake, hardboiled egg, and tofu puffs (add shredded chicken for extra protein, or bean sprouts for fiber) and slippery, chewy cockles, a standard laksa component in Singapore and Malaysia. They are also the only place in town that offers mee siam, a delectably spicy, sweet and sour rice vermicelli dish seasoned with tangy tamarind. Order an iced barley water (subtly flavored with pandan leaves) to cool down.
8 Mercer St., Sheung Wan, 2543-4008; Shop D1, 155 Jaffe Rd., Wan Chai, 3168-2478

Malaymama

If there’s a rather gruesome line outside the original Katong in Sheung Wan (the Wan Chai branch is newer), don’t feel obliged to sweat out the wait. Instead, head over to Malaymama right across the street. Singaporeans flock to Malaymama for its titular mama’s touch. The owner refuses to take short cuts and creates a complex, heart-warming broth for the laksa, which has a richer, creamier coconut flavour and strands of eggplant as the vegetable component. Their simple but satisfying loh mee also seems to be a preferred item there.
11A, Mercer St., Sheung Wan, 2542-4113

Prawn Noodle Shop

You'd better be prepared to queue up during lunchtime here (at least there’s air con since its indoors). This OL favorite has curry laksa, prawn mee, and you can choose from a variety of noodles (Southeast Asian rice vermicelli, thick rice noodle, or chewy, oiled yellow wheat noodles). We come here for the other main style of laksa, the Penang variety—asam laksa, which has a tart, fish-based broth. Asam is Malay for tamarind, and the fire engine red soup is thick with flaked fish (usually mackerel) and shredded chillies, topped with finely sliced cucumber, onions, pineapple and mint. The wait staff always recommends the thicker rice vermicelli instead of wheat noodles to go with this sour, piquant broth, and it comes with hae ko, a sweet, briny shrimp sauce and calamansi on the side.
Shop 201, 2/F, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen's Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 3184-0505