Be a Smoothie

Most men start the day with a shave. For a precious few, this might involve the full treatment at an old-fashioned barbershop, complete with heated towels, cutthroat blade, badger-hair brush – and perhaps something for the weekend, sir? More often, it means a squirt of canned shaving gel, a disposable razor and two minutes in front of a steamed-up bathroom mirror. But even that stripped-to-the-bones ritual can be elevated into a personalized art by the multitude of hi-tech products designed to suit your skin type and solve problems from ingrown hairs to post-shave rashes. What’s a boy to do? We asked the experts, Stephen Wan Kwai-hing of the Mandarin Oriental Barber Shop.

Pre-shave Preparations

Softening your whiskers is the most important step towards achieving the perfect shave. The easiest and most timesaving way to do this is by using an exfoliating scrub in the shower immediately before shaving. Combined with the hot water, the scrub will soften your bristles and open your pores, making the shave smoother and more pleasant. It will reduce the likelihood of ingrown hairs, otherwise known as razor-bumps. It will also prolong the lifespan of your razorblades. Hydrating your face is also important if you use a glycerin-based shaving cream, which works best on warm and wet skin.

If you have the time – and the inclination – try using pre-shave oil, especially if you have a thick beard. Look for products based on natural oils such as coconut, sunflower and olive, because they won’t clog pores. Those containing an anti-bacterial agent provide additional protection against cuts and breakouts.

If you are a fan of electric shavers, you should still prep your face with oils that are formulated specifically for this type of razor, otherwise you risk skin irritations caused by rickety blades or ripping your hairs out (instead of cutting them) on dry, rough stubble. The oils create a sleek surface for the shaver to move more smoothly across your face.

Applying Products

Whether you use a cream, foam, soap or gel, a good-quality shaving brush will increase the effectiveness of your shave: it helps to lift up the facial hair, allowing for a much closer shave. Shaving cream can also be applied with fingers but, regardless of the method you chose, try to massage the product onto your beard for at least one full minute.

Creams and Foams

The main difference between these types of products is that foam contains more air and comes in a can, while creams come in a bottle or tube. Both are good for softening whiskers and for moisturizing and lubricating the skin. They also rinse easily from the blades. Certain creams and foams contain aloe and vitamin E, both effective ingredients for healing the skin and preventing it from drying out. The best of these products are glycerin-based. Avoid products that contain numbing ingredients, such as benzocaine and menthol, because they tend to close up the pores and prevent proper exfoliation.

Shaving Soap

This is a classic shaving tool that must be mixed in a shaving cup or bowl before applying. Apart from being more time-consuming, soap offers the same shaving comfort as other methods. The downside is that it might dry out your skin slightly so pay attention to proper after-shave moisturizing routine.

Shaving Gel

Gels have become very popular in the past decade, because they are easy to apply and create a smooth surface, so the razor can glide over the skin with maximum efficiency. However, gels can clog pores, so it is important to rinse your face thoroughly.

Razors

Other than a cutthroat razor – best used by a professional barber - a good-quality, multi-blade cartridge safety razor (such as the Gillette Mach 3) will give the closest shave. The downside is that it may cause ingrown hairs unless you prepare your skin properly.

The classic double-edged safety razor with a single, double-edged blade remains popular, but it doesn’t cut as close as a multi-bladed device. It’s a better choice if you wish to avoid bumps and irritation, but is more prone to nicking the skin.

Whichever razor you chose, it is recommended that you shave with or across the grain of the beard. If you shave directly against the growth you’re more likely to suffer razor burns and ingrown hairs.

Change the blades frequently: dull blades are another cause of irritations, bumps and cuts. Depending on how often you shave and how thick your beard is, most cartridges and blades last one to four weeks. It’s time for a new blade when you start to feel a slight discomfort during shaving and when the blade starts to pull your hair instead of cutting it.

Electric shavers are convenient and efficient but they don’t give the close shave a safety razor does. Neither do they shave off the uppermost layer of skin, which means they rarely cause razor burns or cuts.