Street Vendor with a Chicken Suit Wong Chi-man
Not your typical street vendor, Wong Chi-man puts on a chicken costume and plays the suona (a Chinese oboe) each day at one of the busiest streets in Guangzhou, selling the famous traditional snack Gongji Nan, or “rooster olive”.
HK Magazine: Why is this snack known as a “rooster olive”? And what’s the story behind your costume?
Wong Chi-man: The tradition of selling rooster olives has been going on in Guangzhou since the Qing Dynasty. At that time, the competition among snack hawkers was intense, and some came up with the gimmick of naming their snacks “rooster olives,” and wearing a rooster costume to go with it. Blowing the suona is supposed to attract the attention of people living upstairs—especially young women. At that time, unmarried women were not allowed out, so the hawkers would throw the snacks up to the balconies and the ladies would put their money in a basket and send it down on a piece of string.
HK: Do you still do business like that these days?
WC: No, I don’t—I don’t even know the throwing technique. That skill has been lost forever. I’m the only one of my kind now and I’ve been doing this business for 10 years, and there are no balconies anymore. And of course, women are allowed on the streets freely these days so they don’t need vendors to throw snacks to them.
HK: Why did you join this business, and why do you still uphold it after so many years?
WC: I joined the business by chance, really. But I enjoy myself and it gives me an opportunity to promote Guangzhou’s unique culture. I think it’s a pity that a lot of traditional practices that have so much value have faded with economic development. It’s a tough job that doesn’t have a fancy income, but I can support my family, so I’ve got no complaints.
HK: What is your costume made from? Is it difficult to maintain?
WC: It’s made from the same material that artists use to make the lion’s heads that are used in Chinese lion dances. Some masters in Guangzhou still know how to make them. It is pretty heavy when the cavity is full of olives. It can take over 10 catties when it’s full, which is not fun when I have to work for 12 hours every day. Maintenance is not very difficult; I just have to store the costume in a dry, shaded and ventilated place. The costume normally lasts for a year, which means I have to get a new one annually.
HK: Can I try on your suit?
WC: I’m sorry but no. A lot of people are interested in my costume but I couldn’t possibly entertain them all. If I ever let one person try it on, people would only come for my costume and not my snacks, and that would be bad for my business. Besides, I don’t want to risk damaging my suit; I don’t want to have to retire early!