Food Fashion
What are the biggest dining trends of 2009? Johannes Pong finds out what’s cooking.
Ceviche is the new sashimi
The traditional way of preparing seafood with citrus juices in Peru, Ceviche is popular all over Latin America. It became a worldwide culinary trend in 2006, after Nobu introduced it to his menu. Paralleling the effect of heat on protein, the citric acid essentially “cooks” the fish by denaturing it and breaking it down. Now we have all sorts of marinated “sashimi-salsa,” made from scallop, scampi, shrimp, squid or different varieties of fish. Laced with lime, the chilies, onions, garlic and cilantro give the dish a spicy resonance. Try a lux version made of lobster at NOBU.
NOBU, 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-1211.
Bottarga is the new caviar
Also known as boutargue or poutargue if you happen to be in a French restaurant, Bottarga is cured roe pouch of either tuna, grey mullet or sometimes swordfish. It’s like Mediterranean mentaiko but drier, since it’s um, dried. The salty, desiccated delicacy has been the “poor man’s caviar” for ages in Sicily and Sardinia. It tops dishes in grated form or thin slices and has a taste reminiscent of anchovies. Savor the recessionista’s caviar at DiVino, where they serve a mean spaghetti alla bottarga di muggine (Sardinian grey mullet) and at Peccato, spaghetti with bottarga of tonno (Sicilian tuna).
DiVino, 73 Wyndham St., Central, 2167-8883
Peccato, 37 Elgin St., Central, 2525-0919
Challans duck is the new Wagyu
French kings have feasted on ducks from Challans, the marshy regions of Brittany and Vendée, since the 18th century. And yes, this bird tastes like steak. The waterfowl made famous by the Parisian restaurant La Tour d’Argent made its New York debut in late 2004. Since then, the word “Challans” has appeared on every hip haute menu. The ducks are free to wander from the farms to the canals, where the females mate not only with the farmed males, but also with wild drakes. How French. With lean and tender flesh, the males have a richer taste.Try it in three styles at Amber, as pâté, consommé and in a corn salad as duck delicacies (i.e. innards).
Amber, 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd., Central, 2132-0066.