A La Umai A la Umai is a Japanese-French restaurant atop an unlikely looking commercial building with perhaps the best harbor view in the city: Central to the left and Tsim Sha Tsui to the right. The restaurant makes the most of its location with dim lights and plenty of sleek black. But what impressed us more was the food: the mentaiko (marinated fish roe) salad was fresh and delicious, and the 360-day grain-fed steak from Australia was a juicy, perfectly cooked slab of beefy heaven. 25/F, Morecrown Commercial Building, 108 Electric Rd., Tin Hau, 2234-6628. Café Deco Bar & Grill The most famous view in town and consistently good food to boot. It’s a huge place: 15,000 square feet on two floors, linked by a spiral staircase. Indulge at the oyster bar, book a window table for the full East-West a la carte experience, order dessert from the Italian bar, or simply have a drink surrounded by a collection of authentic art deco cocktail shakers. 1-2/F, Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111. Felix Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor and famous bathrooms, thanks to the view from the gents. The small, space-age bar is great for pre- or post-dinner cocktails. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free—thanks to a no under-12s policy—with some amazing fusion dishes. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3188. Hutong There’s no debate; this celeb favorite is gorgeous. With its dark, unlacquered wood furnishings and fabulous harbor view, you simultaneously feel like you are in an upscale northern Chinese dining hall and a modern, elegant restaurant. Food is beautifully presented Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3428-8342. Oyster & Wine Bar The plush atmosphere and commanding harbor view is interrupted only by a brief Tourism Bureau voiceover when the Symphony of Lights starts nightly at 8:15pm. Otherwise it’s a study in elegance and old-school glitz, seemingly forever suspended in “Miami Vice” cool. If it’s a mighty fish you’re after, you won’t go wanting with the revolving seasonal menu. And ask for a table by the window for an evening out you won’t soon forget. 18/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-1111. Petrus This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The decor is opulent—think chateau chic, with crystal chandeliers and swags of curtains, but with stunning views of the harbor—and the ambiance luxurious, hushed and formal. The food is French haute cuisine, with no fusion flourishes or contemporary re-imaginings, and the ingredients are flown in from France. There are more than 1,000 choices on the wine list, said to be the longest and perhaps the best in Asia, with some rare vintages at stratospheric prices. Jacket required. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2820-8590. Tott’s What blew us away at Tott’s (besides the sophisticated décor and harbor-view seats, that is) were the main courses, modest portions that put a focus on good cooking over conceited presentation, and left us feeling sated without any sense of gluttony. Tott’s deserves an extra star on the strength of its service alone: our waiter was polite, attentive and ready with recommendations, but in no way overbearing. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2837-6786.